tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43305238138422657462024-02-19T22:28:38.380+11:00CozyCotton: Celeste's Sewing BlogI am a sewing addict, a chatter box and a blogger.cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-89460205582628103792018-04-10T00:58:00.002+10:002018-04-10T01:09:22.213+10:00DIY maternity wardrobe: Tilly Buttons Mama Agnes Dress<div class="MsoNormal">
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This is a very belated post. I made this dress way back 7 months ago. Well now I already have a four month old. I'll try to update about my new baby in a future post, but for now, let me finish about this dress.<br />
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This is the third garment made from the Tilly Mama Agnes pattern. At around 32 weeks I really need more maternity clothing and this is a quick fix. Last time I made two tops, this time I made the dress. Same everything except the fabric.<br />
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The fabric is poly knit bonded with backing. It’s quite stretchy. You need stretchy fabric for this pattern because of the negative ease.<br />
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Fabric yardage: Length1.6m Width 135 cm</div>
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I cut size 3 and graded to size 4 from waist down. I used 5/8 inch seam allowance. <br />
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I shortened the hem by 1-1/4 inch. I am happy with this length. Like my last two Agnes tops, I shortened the waist by 1/2 inch. I didn't alter the sleeve. I am happy with the sleeve length.<br />
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This is a very quick project. It took me maybe a couple of hours.<br />
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-47247218890495760502017-09-25T00:38:00.002+10:002017-09-25T00:59:30.310+10:00Sew My Own Maternity Wardrobe: Mama Agnes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hello. I am back to blogging, after a more than half year absence. The last seven 7 months has been so crazy. I have been pregnant! First Child. So you can imagine my excitement and how my life has turned upside down. However, that’s not the excuse for my half year absence. The winter in Melbourne this year is too cold and too long. I have chosen to stay in bed and keep warm when I should be sewing. Now that winter is truly over and I went straight back to my sewing table on a warm and sunny day.<br />
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This pattern, <a href="https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/maternity-agnes-digital" target="_blank">Maternity Agnes from Tilly and the Buttons</a>, came out just at the time when I needed maternity clothes the most. After 30 weeks, I found most of the clothes in my closet are no longer wearable. My belly is too big! So I looked for some maternity patterns. Initially I wanted to alter <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/55822" target="_blank">Vogue 1314 </a>into a maternity dress after seeing a few ladies did so on PatternReview, but pattern alteration or drafting is not really my strong suit so I gave up. Then I came across the new maternity release from Tilly and the Buttons on PatternReview, my search ended with this pattern.<br />
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<b>Size and Fabric</b><br />
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I have been seeing lots of their famous Bettine Dresses but I had not sewn any of their patterns. So I made the top version to test out the fitting. I made size 3, according to my pre-pregnancy bust size. My first attempt was on a Grey poly/rayon jersey. My second version is a thicker stripe cotton/rayon jersey. I did not have enough stripe fabric so I made a shorter sleeve. They are both stretchy.<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Grey poly/rayon jersey: 1.5m wide, 1.3m long<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Strips cotton/poly/rayon jersey: 1.5m wide, 1.2m long.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzi9a4k5QHpDfMY5dsQnLs99VCpgLwgLOjgmD5WatCIfDQyYLHtBdbmme9-Fz72Gy8X7llEyfz8SGd0POvcnn0eNzRhHuxFrXdPvSQBfVLvO0D2NrDxypUlT9mgjhs0jyX5UTSvJykWDGg/s1600/06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzi9a4k5QHpDfMY5dsQnLs99VCpgLwgLOjgmD5WatCIfDQyYLHtBdbmme9-Fz72Gy8X7llEyfz8SGd0POvcnn0eNzRhHuxFrXdPvSQBfVLvO0D2NrDxypUlT9mgjhs0jyX5UTSvJykWDGg/s640/06.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Version 1 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Version 2</td></tr>
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<b>Fitting and Alteration</b><br />
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I was not happy with the fitting of the armholes. There seems to be excess fabric at the joint of the shoulder and sleep cap. So when I made a second version, I used the armhole of the Sewaholic Renfrew top. The Renfrew top has a higher armhole, and smaller neckline. After washing both garments and wearing them, I actually think the original pattern fits well too. So when I make it next time, I won’t alter the armholes.<br />
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One thing I am adamant to alter is the gather of fabric on the top front. As the gather starts at the bust line, there is an excess of fabric between the underbust and top of the belly. So I moved the starting point of the gathering down by 1 inch and made more gathering below the waist on my second version. It fits much better.<br />
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I also shortened the hem by 1 inch.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
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I dived into sewing knits recently. Before making this top, I watched the <a href="https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/classes/the-ultimate-t-shirt-fitting-construction/35311" target="_blank">T-shirt making class by Marcy & Katherine Tilton on Craftsy</a>. I learned a few tips and applied them to this top. I really don’t like the instructions of Tilly and the Buttons. The illustrations for the steps are actual photos, not diagrams. I found it’s confusing and not clear. Luckily it’s an easy project. I am not sure I will buy their patterns again given the instructions are not clear for me.<br />
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The instructions usually tell you to stitch two lines in the seam allowance and pull them to make a gather. I prefer to stitch one line on each side of the actual stitch line for the gather, then I sew the actual stitch line in between the two gathering lines, as shown below.<br />
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<b>Conclusion</b><br />
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I Iike this pattern and the two tops made from it. It’s a very close fit so using a comfy stretchy fabric is important. I am definitely making the dress version soon after finishing some other projects. Highly recommend it if you are sewing your own maternity wardrobe.<br />
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-25231492498017109322017-03-03T01:24:00.001+11:002017-03-03T01:49:19.200+11:00Burdastyle 01/2017 #103: Oversized Hoodie<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtNAj4gWat-5eteZMfUdaw2vXSUJNMY7F-kOCJnYx1ORbiVt8wK8uRqlU0ydp3FDqf96YphsBmN41y2uJ8efCNkP2Ps1PtH-QvjHxd41yjqqakgYXO-vbLLHe7sglXj-BG7JY-3p_A06lv/s1600/000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtNAj4gWat-5eteZMfUdaw2vXSUJNMY7F-kOCJnYx1ORbiVt8wK8uRqlU0ydp3FDqf96YphsBmN41y2uJ8efCNkP2Ps1PtH-QvjHxd41yjqqakgYXO-vbLLHe7sglXj-BG7JY-3p_A06lv/s640/000.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I made this Oversized Hoodie for Pattern Review’s Serger and Coverstitch Contest. It's based on <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/hoodie-012017" target="_blank">BurdaStyle Magazine 01/2017 #103.</a><br />
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<b>Style and Size</b><br />
After I cut out the fabric, I realised the body of hoodie was going to be HUGE. I was a bit disappointed because the hoodie on the photo in the magazine is quite slim. The model used her arms to hide all the excess fabric at the side seams. I did learn something from <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/hoodie-103-012017" target="_blank">sewitgorgeous's review</a>, saying it's very big and better to make it two sizes smaller. I didn't think I would mind a big hoodie so I cut my size 38. Well.. it turned out to be really big but I am OK with it now. It's actually quite comfy. I can still wear it out to the mall.<br />
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<b>Fabric</b><br />
I bought 2 meter of sweater knits from Spotlight for $7. I only used 1.5 meters of sweater knits in the project.<br />
<br />
I used recycled rayon knit for the lining of the hood. It's my first time to recycle fabric from my unwanted clothes. I am very satisfied and I want to do that more in the future.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
I
have been hesitating on what project to do solely on the serger and coverstitch. I normally use my Bernina 440 to sew everything and only use those specialty machines to
neaten the edges and do the hemming. </div>
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As I started sewing my knits this year, I realised 4-thread serging is actually very good for knit seams. I used to stitch a 5/8" seam allowance on the conventional sewing machines then trim the seam allowance off on the serger. When I made <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2017/02/late-to-renfrew-top-party.html" target="_blank">my Renfrew top</a>, I cut only 3/8" seam allowance and sewed it straight on the serger. In that process, I needed to eyeball while feeding the fabric so it cuts away 1/8" seam allowance.</div>
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I am glad I joined the contest. It forced me to practise stitching seams on the serger. I learned some tricks with my serger and coverstitch machine. For example, when starting to sew the pointy layers at the beginning, I trim away 1/8" S.A. so that I can tuck it further in under the presser foot and the fabric is fed smoothly.<br />
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With my Babylock coverstitch, I also used the bottom side of the coverstitch as a top stitch for the front pocket and the hood. It's a bit fiddly and my Babylock does not have much room on the right hand side of the needle. The top stitch turned out great, though.<br />
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<b>Conclusion</b><br />
So it turns out, the hoodie is oversized. But who cares?! It's comfy and just looks like other hoodies when I wore it out shopping. I also like the colour very much. Overall, I am quite happy with the end result despite initial doubts.<br />
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-17517656547079689842017-02-26T01:11:00.001+11:002017-02-26T01:46:34.754+11:00A Cynthia Rowley Peplum Tunic: Simplicity 1104:<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
I am always a fan
of Simplicity's Cynthia Rowley Collection. I made <u><a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2013/10/sunflower-dress-wt-puff-sleeves.html" target="_blank">a dress from her collection</a></u> (Simplicity 1873) a few years ago and I was happy with it. I was initially attracted to <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-1104-misses-separates-cynthia-rowley-collection/1104.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 1104</a> by the deep V neckline and the big pleats and fitted princess seams. I had lots of confidence in the pattern before I started sewing it.<br />
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<b>Style</b></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
The top (or dress
if you keep all the length to the knees) only consists of 6 pattern pieces
including those of the lining. The main fabric front is one piece and so is the
main fabric back. </div>
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There are darts
and princess seams on each side on both the front and the back, which contours
the waist and the bust. There are pleats on the bottom of the darts and
princess seams. The design is very flattering. <br />
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<b>Pattern Alterations</b><br />
I read the reviews and most people recommend raising the V neckline. I used size 14 neckline because it sits above size 10 on the pattern as recommended in <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/125941#" target="_blank">velosewer's review.</a><br />
<br />
The lining only
lines the top. I hate half lined garment. So I redrafted the lining pattern pieces by overlapping the original lining pattern on the folded main fabric pattern and traced the remaining length on the main fabric pattern. Here is a picture showing how to extend the lining pattern.<br />
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I did not add bias binding on the hem. Since the top is a bit too long for me, I folded up 3 cm from the bottom edge and hand stitched a blind hem. </div>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Sizing</b></div>
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I cut a size 10, although my measurement is a 12 bodice and 14 from the waist according to the
envelope chart. I made a size 12 (graded to 14 from waist) muslin but it turned
out very big.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I made a full size 10.
It turned out the waist is a bit too tight. I should have added 1/4 inch at the
side seams. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">I think the armholes are a little too big for me. Not a big issue but little thing I can improve if I make it again.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh865WGwlsHLga-DAaqqBV3mcaW5gSfi0V5RQ6hZXkKgSHTKXtyObH62PDS3G3OrRWjV0pRpylFwjx2cBx-2_bGKGiC_qJIuxq1yqnYr0xJFttIdh9fa177QGJsFZr74k1gQS8VhMubv2DU/s1600/9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh865WGwlsHLga-DAaqqBV3mcaW5gSfi0V5RQ6hZXkKgSHTKXtyObH62PDS3G3OrRWjV0pRpylFwjx2cBx-2_bGKGiC_qJIuxq1yqnYr0xJFttIdh9fa177QGJsFZr74k1gQS8VhMubv2DU/s640/9.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<b>Fabric</b></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
I used only
1.1m Double Face Satin (150cm wide), and 0.75m lining (also 150cm wide).
I found fabric that holds some body makes the pleats look better. </div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<b>Construction</b></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
I quickly made a
mistake by gluing the neckline interfacing to the main fabric. The interfacing should be
attached to the lining! Oh Well.. Lesson learnt - Always read your instructions before sewing!<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqJ-kjmZqMGj5RcDzO7lq5q8FQpJLJOetu3_psHEIFoLW9-PW_xJ20n7X9kP0iOfwNf9OsePfs9i-3Pr9zYFSgo9ZsGqt34k1U_XstrBnXQbMDT5c01Jav00ZwRCkRwPCfN6wJvDbGmtb/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqJ-kjmZqMGj5RcDzO7lq5q8FQpJLJOetu3_psHEIFoLW9-PW_xJ20n7X9kP0iOfwNf9OsePfs9i-3Pr9zYFSgo9ZsGqt34k1U_XstrBnXQbMDT5c01Jav00ZwRCkRwPCfN6wJvDbGmtb/s640/5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
Bottom of the
darts and princess seams and sewn up to create darts. I love pleats but I don't
like sewing pleats. There are a few short stitches here.</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
An invisible zip was installed on the centre back. It's good to leave a couple of inches on the neckline from the centre back unstitched so the invisible zip was installed neatly. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicO7TnWuRkryNtx4I893TrrbZpJGsprlZ7FT41wW2xK03_J3mMImTNMjM0B-o9_n9BVp_zfYDMDJu_uM3ZjwoiLG23jTNL2MVbL1OYx8aIaA-FliAhnuMPPO8S3hkdzfoXYrmaZMCaV7C2/s1600/6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicO7TnWuRkryNtx4I893TrrbZpJGsprlZ7FT41wW2xK03_J3mMImTNMjM0B-o9_n9BVp_zfYDMDJu_uM3ZjwoiLG23jTNL2MVbL1OYx8aIaA-FliAhnuMPPO8S3hkdzfoXYrmaZMCaV7C2/s640/6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I use pinking
shears to trim the edges because the top is fully lined.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1CCVyQVPgfxxQbTpxzxItnh3jQF7vZK_EO191QNWgJUEafVEpzwCv0BDhhvs7684Szz0mqidTVPYMY_m9gFcCG1xVeS1Mer1avOIswNRpWBcDRMBuLrqBsdjoQPSmS6-Rn1EqQy-jy6Q/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1CCVyQVPgfxxQbTpxzxItnh3jQF7vZK_EO191QNWgJUEafVEpzwCv0BDhhvs7684Szz0mqidTVPYMY_m9gFcCG1xVeS1Mer1avOIswNRpWBcDRMBuLrqBsdjoQPSmS6-Rn1EqQy-jy6Q/s640/7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<b>Conclusion</b></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
It’s a very
flattering peplum top. The darts and the princess seam contour the bust and the waist very well. It is clinching the waist and has lots of volume below the waist. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVa87cjjJi0ySrmpLXSKIJ4-nn7NU3mHT_gi4DiyfAjvrL_wdaIBBoccI0VmA-xOCMcEV344UHHKulSeu3kbzsgvbki1SNONadvOGI5BCzmAbcdE0mcc23_y5WAeF5zJ7b_XD_-yZe9vl/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVa87cjjJi0ySrmpLXSKIJ4-nn7NU3mHT_gi4DiyfAjvrL_wdaIBBoccI0VmA-xOCMcEV344UHHKulSeu3kbzsgvbki1SNONadvOGI5BCzmAbcdE0mcc23_y5WAeF5zJ7b_XD_-yZe9vl/s640/10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I didn’t own any peplum tops so it’s good to have one
now, but I don’t think it’s for pear shapes. I found peplums tend to make hips look
bigger. It would be nice if you have long and skinny legs below it to balance
the accentuation of the hip, but the pear shapes have big thighs and short
legs. IMO it just makes pear shapes look more “pear”. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nonetheless, I still want to make the dress
version of this pattern to see what it will be like.</div>
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<![endif]-->cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-88095901371758618492017-02-15T22:51:00.000+11:002019-02-11T00:43:10.301+11:00A Tale of Two SwimsuitsI always wanted a
pink swimsuit. When I saw Pattern Review's Activewear Contest, I said, that’s it, it’s
time to make a swimsuit. I had NEVER made a
swimsuit before, and had zero idea of how difficult it could be. But the
optimistic me thought that there are so many online resources nowadays and I
could learn, so I took the plunge.<br />
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<b>Finding the pattern, learning the skills, choosing fabric and supplies...</b></div>
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I started with
last year’s PR contest winner <u><a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/120185" target="_blank">treefrog’s Swimsuit</a></u>. I really like the design
of that swimsuit. I tracked down the <u><a href="https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/merckwaerdigh?ref=l2-shopheader-name" target="_blank">seller (also the designer) of that pattern on Esty</a></u>. I locked my eyes on this swimsuit pattern because: 1) the
underwired cups and lapel/turn-back are so eye catching 2) the design is quite unique and
modern without straight side seams. So I ordered the patterns all the way from the Netherlands. </div>
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<br />
As I was determined to
make this swimsuit, while waiting for the pattern, I started reading blogs
about bra making. I got a little bit of an idea what the components of my
bra were, but I was still so confused how to install the channelling and sewing
the cups.<br />
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<br />
Two weeks later, I
received the pattern in my letter box. I was excited to open the pattern but
soon disappointed and stressed after I found out the sewing instructions were
like the Burda Style Magazine type – concise, only words and NO ILLUSTRATIONS. I
read the instructions many times and I just couldn’t understand and visualise all
the steps and the materials. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I GOT STUCK.</div>
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<br />
The breakthrough
is when I posted a question on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/660966093969309/" target="_blank"><u>Melbourne Spoolettes’ FB page</u> </a>(closed
group) asking other group members where to source the materials and tips for making swimsuits. One of the ladies recommended the <u><a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/introducing-sophie-swimsuit-pattern/" target="_blank">Closet case’s Sophie swimsuit pattern</a></u> and their online workshop.</div>
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I enrolled in the
course and it comes with a free pattern. I was surprised. This is the best money
I spent on an online sewing course ever! It’s so well presented and extremely
informational for a beginner like me. </div>
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By then I had met
with Georgina at <u><a href="http://sewsquirrel.com.au/">Sewsquirrel.com.au</a></u> (also recommended by the ladies on
FB) She helped me with buying the supplies I need. She explained to me what power
net, bra foam and swimwear lining are in great details with the actual product.
Combined with the online workshop, I can imagine putting together my swimsuit. </div>
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<br /></div>
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<u><a href="https://www.theremnantwarehouse.com.au/" target="_blank">The Remnant Warehouse</a></u> has a great range of chlorine-resistant swimwear lycra. Most of the printed
ones come from <a href="https://www.jets.com.au/" target="_blank"><u>Jets Swimwear</u></a>, a premium Australian swimwear brand. I
ordered the</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<a href="https://www.theremnantwarehouse.com.au/folk-art-floral-spandex-white.html" target="_blank">Folk ArtFloral Spandex</a> and a matching <a href="https://www.theremnantwarehouse.com.au/matt-lycra-candy-pink.html" target="_blank">Pink Spandex</a>.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Making it… Muslin #1 Sophie Swimsuit</b></div>
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Initially I only
planned to just watch the videos for the bits that I needed for my swimsuit
project. I ended up watching the whole course and made a sample of the Sophie
Swimsuit. Heather, the presenter, is such a well-spoken and hands-on teacher.
She really inspired me to give it a go with her Sophie Swimsuit.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdX2WkKeqRJrUf32vGIzMDfApMqTS5xJDjUCdhkeAQhBN3Tl2aB8AMtetdA1RRpi75RMYKdYf_AOXNZjcBs1luBcyGSbNvNz32G1OWBQBvaaHMUFoPomHXVdS9omYNJGPyw0L9l4yBixgi/s1600/blog-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdX2WkKeqRJrUf32vGIzMDfApMqTS5xJDjUCdhkeAQhBN3Tl2aB8AMtetdA1RRpi75RMYKdYf_AOXNZjcBs1luBcyGSbNvNz32G1OWBQBvaaHMUFoPomHXVdS9omYNJGPyw0L9l4yBixgi/s400/blog-13.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sophie Swimsuit.... First swimsuit I ever made.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This is the first
swimsuit I made. It’s not too bad. There are a few things I can improve on if I
make the pattern again (I think I will). But, for now, I learnt some important
tips:</div>
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<span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span>Use a walking foot for Lycra. I didn’t know until I
watched Heather’s video. It makes a huge difference.</div>
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<span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span>Use straight stitch to sew the cups and use a serger to sew the other
seams. </div>
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<span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span>Use clear elastic to stabilise the top edge of the cup
(more details below).</div>
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<span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span>The long arrows on swimsuit patterns are actually
stretch lines. You need to find the more stretchy direction of the fabric, which can
be lengthwise, or crosswise depend on the fabric, and align the pattern pieces along
the stretch line. </div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Finally making it… Muslin #2 my swimsuit</b></div>
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After practising
sewing a swimsuit with Sophie (above), I still wanted to make a muslin of my
swimsuit to check the fitting, and practise again.<br />
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<br />
Luckily I made this
muslin, I found a couple of areas I need to improve such as the cups. As you can see in the photo below:<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Finally Really Making it… the Real Swimsuit</b></div>
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</div>
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Yay, I am finally
cutting the fabulous fabric for my swimsuit. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
Apart from the
fitting changes mentioned above, I also make some changes on the construction:</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 36.0pt; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span>I added a power net to line the upper cup (see the photo below)</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 36.0pt; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span>I added a <a href="http://www.sewsquirrel.com.au/swimwear-lining/" target="_blank">swimwear lining</a> to the front body piece and the shoulder
straps because the printed fabric is thinner than the plain one.<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">So it’s done</b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
I would really
like to wear it to the beach and take some photos, but I only finished it today and
I need to post it up for PR’s activewear contest. However, I will
put up some photos once I have a chance to go to the beach. </div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Conclusion</b></div>
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</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
The past month is
such a steep learning curve for me. I really enjoy the whole learning
experience, although sometimes it’s a bit stressful with a deadline at the back
of my mind. Like making my wedding gown from zero knowledge a few years ago,
this is such fun learning a whole new skill and it’s really encouraging for me
to take on any project in the future. I am looking forward to starting making
my own bras. <br />
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
Happy sewing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48g0Xx7RTsrKvH0aKkHV5CYjZSB38GUOO5fYv51FUCsREWfOwo6MHMgCoc7ZemVF9yFGtnteFNhB0QbI94j3K-L-Qig7Q76gCvpNt6InUVOkcgveqRBdX64O_x64h50ep74UXRghDfTgm/s1600/blog-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48g0Xx7RTsrKvH0aKkHV5CYjZSB38GUOO5fYv51FUCsREWfOwo6MHMgCoc7ZemVF9yFGtnteFNhB0QbI94j3K-L-Qig7Q76gCvpNt6InUVOkcgveqRBdX64O_x64h50ep74UXRghDfTgm/s640/blog-7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloud is such a good companion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<![endif]-->cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-70651006367730631732017-02-05T13:36:00.001+11:002017-02-05T13:36:55.217+11:00Late to the Renfrew Top PartyI am really late to the Renfrew Top Party, although I have
had this pattern since three years ago. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
main reason I hadn’t sewn it is because I kept avoiding knits and only seriously wanted to starting sewing it once I bought a coverstitch machine. I did buy a Janome CoverPro a couple years ago, but
I wasn’t fully satisfied with it. I could have given a lengthy review about the
machine and that will only discourage you from getting one.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptC2yHhK7ybWu1SL7TST385W4mYS25YTOq26Yv_17F7w0zIsJ3jzcelXstagmvsiZvBicuzFWwaZRrJ_y3jEcDnKJEqc4A7Mpc2lSrPb3CSpyf0GAcno1yfrQ-VkCK2a3q0GEg8cjvMK7/s1600/heading.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptC2yHhK7ybWu1SL7TST385W4mYS25YTOq26Yv_17F7w0zIsJ3jzcelXstagmvsiZvBicuzFWwaZRrJ_y3jEcDnKJEqc4A7Mpc2lSrPb3CSpyf0GAcno1yfrQ-VkCK2a3q0GEg8cjvMK7/s640/heading.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So fast forward to the beginning of 2017, I was frustrated
by my CoverPro enough to have the courage to buy a brand new Baby Lock BLCS-2
Coverstitch Machine. I spent big $$ for it. I wouldn’t say it’s worth every
cent because Baby Lock’s prices are highly inflated in Australia, but it’s a
GOOD coverstitch machine. I finally have all the motivation to make my first Renfrew top (I
reckon there will be more).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgri5nAl2S8iMtXk2RyC0_PlGBNiA9LdH_P3dTYNaFrypDv8e2oxHBLP6xVnI_U5OYS4YRig5sW1Y-CzNyhWUbw8_Q8pKkmnTCyqvKb97QvYdU7Q3ToK9TC226tdwLXQtEaVIF2kt3clB2B/s1600/Photo+5-2-17%252C+11+17+06+am.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgri5nAl2S8iMtXk2RyC0_PlGBNiA9LdH_P3dTYNaFrypDv8e2oxHBLP6xVnI_U5OYS4YRig5sW1Y-CzNyhWUbw8_Q8pKkmnTCyqvKb97QvYdU7Q3ToK9TC226tdwLXQtEaVIF2kt3clB2B/s400/Photo+5-2-17%252C+11+17+06+am.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9gODgJGzsmd6Th0PS6n4fvLDigNFXbaPsNtTC5lILPxELU1rgppxRA1ysCtoYE2qZrViKcajtnlWuKg_yimhf_hMUSLG77PJh1-ncaMovix3ZW_iA15bUwuF31fqw6zONYBOv0CzdEeOs/s1600/front-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9gODgJGzsmd6Th0PS6n4fvLDigNFXbaPsNtTC5lILPxELU1rgppxRA1ysCtoYE2qZrViKcajtnlWuKg_yimhf_hMUSLG77PJh1-ncaMovix3ZW_iA15bUwuF31fqw6zONYBOv0CzdEeOs/s640/front-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<b>Size</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I cut size 6 although my measurement is a size 8 according to the size chart. I didn’t make much adjustment except
shortening the sleeve by ½ inch. I am happy with the fitting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHlAo2B7oWhM2x8refBdxUeZc4Siy82DyK9-RkZwfTI2ewRYkukh2L9szxQVdhb1i14IFkTZnhz2Ux_FdX_mWnn2sY9eXa_1fZfGZqFPcg9ood7WASp3AzT2ydqAD5OjOc_xkoi3xIi0q/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHlAo2B7oWhM2x8refBdxUeZc4Siy82DyK9-RkZwfTI2ewRYkukh2L9szxQVdhb1i14IFkTZnhz2Ux_FdX_mWnn2sY9eXa_1fZfGZqFPcg9ood7WASp3AzT2ydqAD5OjOc_xkoi3xIi0q/s640/back.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Fabric</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am not familiar with the different types of knit fabric. I can’t
tell what fibres are in this fabric. The fabric is very comfy and warm. I use 1.2 metre @ $4/metre.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
I always try to match the stripes at the side seams if I am sewing stripe fabric. It just looks much better.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirsiEvYjZZ3A-uNHEFSIzeSFIM7pgQhEHhuMHlfGlVtkayFL0gdU8_Iy00txZNtSDBQYj80lYA98P3RU71X2tMtNx16E-M7RY7mye3isaPuRjH_ccOSQwFHtR2z4JKmLBjZa_exDjDegpO/s1600/front-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirsiEvYjZZ3A-uNHEFSIzeSFIM7pgQhEHhuMHlfGlVtkayFL0gdU8_Iy00txZNtSDBQYj80lYA98P3RU71X2tMtNx16E-M7RY7mye3isaPuRjH_ccOSQwFHtR2z4JKmLBjZa_exDjDegpO/s640/front-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stripes at side seams matched.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Construction</b><br />
The construction is very straightforward. Most of the knit fabric patterns give 5/8 inch seam allowance. At the beginning, I followed the instructions and sewed 5/8" S.A on my sewing machine, then I ran it under the serger, trimming off 1/4" S.A and left a narrow S.A. I found this a bit time consuming. So when I did the waistband (the last seam of the project), I just stitched on the serger, eyeballing 1/4" seam allowance to trim it off. It is actually really easy and saves lots of time. I think I need to get used to sewing knit fabric directly on the serger from now on.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlc-i2CE_X4A7EB-wCGfza1ICPCGdyNBun5HlONj5MfoSdDFvByxRI_IUWsRsBXdVp6q8oMLVgU-j3UYTUavBKKo01yZ915SuKkVUKScT_lGeQ5ZpAibS2k_Pkog9M-6oqR9ywCTwvZxag/s1600/Construction-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlc-i2CE_X4A7EB-wCGfza1ICPCGdyNBun5HlONj5MfoSdDFvByxRI_IUWsRsBXdVp6q8oMLVgU-j3UYTUavBKKo01yZ915SuKkVUKScT_lGeQ5ZpAibS2k_Pkog9M-6oqR9ywCTwvZxag/s640/Construction-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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At the neckband, I made good use of my babylock coverstitch.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIghYEgUMAvzyRbKCfBua8ONfAH1XaUoY4Edebfb7gMEvpsMKZhS6AihL9tqXGQ9yCsCcE04W1cWf7r4mO0RxnAXU6C00XejYHwMwVbUiG3qz57hyaJDuyAcBctUhxo-CydW0QyvlGQio/s1600/front-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIghYEgUMAvzyRbKCfBua8ONfAH1XaUoY4Edebfb7gMEvpsMKZhS6AihL9tqXGQ9yCsCcE04W1cWf7r4mO0RxnAXU6C00XejYHwMwVbUiG3qz57hyaJDuyAcBctUhxo-CydW0QyvlGQio/s640/front-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Like all my other Sewaholic projects, I always want to make another
one after the first. Renfrew is no exception. Plus, I love wearing knit tees.</div>
cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-41111747308422318112017-01-09T23:39:00.000+11:002017-01-09T23:39:22.336+11:00Colette Hawthorn Dress Happy New Year! I hope you achieve whatever you want to
achieve in 2017. One of my ambitions this year is to sew at least two projects
a month and upload some tutorials on my blog.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
I hope you had a good break. I spent lots of time sewing
during in the last few weeks. I just came back from China in early December with
lots of goodies (mainly haberdashery) and can’t wait to use them all. But for
now, here is my review of Colette’s Hawthorn Dress.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJb2bW_YAKIY_GKxBWN-NqE0zla22mHgil1MjVt_-QjO-lujxan2xk6k4owH1n2ldkF0yWTNA-RStdV6ZggvYCa0QUzRxykK8iZJAyCkAQNlH_j4983KZTp5oJFs6EJY8NEOScwU1VYFwD/s1600/Main.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJb2bW_YAKIY_GKxBWN-NqE0zla22mHgil1MjVt_-QjO-lujxan2xk6k4owH1n2ldkF0yWTNA-RStdV6ZggvYCa0QUzRxykK8iZJAyCkAQNlH_j4983KZTp5oJFs6EJY8NEOScwU1VYFwD/s640/Main.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
It’s a popular pattern in 2013. I've had it in my stash for long
time. This is also my first time to sew Colette. I am not used to reading the 20+
pages of instruction. I just flipped through for the illustrations and thought of the
steps as I went. You may have a different view, but for me their instructions
are too pedantic.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqv_GjSsayLA4iu1oNSszs-6pg3KuQ32e7juRo2hQAfuToro8cOMZKlhOl0ExyPOxUS2qgo9MPU-hNggA8jf2rJaM83VsoYASKNhxWGgVOwUX9BAm-zFxFwNIf7k5vNjYSdTeDetxxtdgQ/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqv_GjSsayLA4iu1oNSszs-6pg3KuQ32e7juRo2hQAfuToro8cOMZKlhOl0ExyPOxUS2qgo9MPU-hNggA8jf2rJaM83VsoYASKNhxWGgVOwUX9BAm-zFxFwNIf7k5vNjYSdTeDetxxtdgQ/s640/5.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>The style</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I really like the collar and the neckline. I happen to have
a jumper that fits perfectly to the neckline of the dress. The skirt is very
flaring. I wanted to make this dress because it reminds me of what Bernadette often
wears on The Big Bang Theory. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYN1GaOTEaAQaoT-K1epWNAi2BDiybRdVii54yymeOUoksvAJ0NNgs5lMkrehOLnIzT7rSSF-tWET6miH_BtzPNBLd-9bKXby75sJtU5xX-uQZW6ByS_Unriv4VhyYYFWrPq9gkoU0M1T/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYN1GaOTEaAQaoT-K1epWNAi2BDiybRdVii54yymeOUoksvAJ0NNgs5lMkrehOLnIzT7rSSF-tWET6miH_BtzPNBLd-9bKXby75sJtU5xX-uQZW6ByS_Unriv4VhyYYFWrPq9gkoU0M1T/s640/3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bernadette Style... Cute geeky look</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW_V-HFwWSsK3j4Onsgp_2pYW9Rgq6_FP8_rnTMbc4ud44Rrn_yK0yJ_CPNEk-43oPcwUaAymmj77hT4fMjW6q2tR0e7ZzC1zGelc9sLg3vEZ2BLrrT-JZXWhuhrbDCmBOyOKwFk1PIPZc/s1600/9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW_V-HFwWSsK3j4Onsgp_2pYW9Rgq6_FP8_rnTMbc4ud44Rrn_yK0yJ_CPNEk-43oPcwUaAymmj77hT4fMjW6q2tR0e7ZzC1zGelc9sLg3vEZ2BLrrT-JZXWhuhrbDCmBOyOKwFk1PIPZc/s640/9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back and side view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>The Size</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I cut size 4 and graded to 6 from waist. I always knew
Colette’s Pattern is more for busty women, but I underestimated how busty it
was intended for. I am a B cup chest, and followed the chart to pick size 4. I
thought I would be safe and did not make a muslin. Well… I was wrong. The front
bodice ended up having a bit too much fabric for me. When I wore it to work, my
friend pointed it out straight away for me (red face). I needed a SBA! Well…
Lesson learnt – absolutely make a fitting muslin on all Colette dresses. I shortened
the Skirt by 1 inch. <br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3CR5WJLRSG5Q-o0K9Jooi2clDfAfNXgNZI3IhJAFg7lrp_k-Tea_wDmePMfmVfW4GuXvTy7kAgOXoEnLP_UTa8OYBxDW3iuncjaZ2F8Bf6VH7psfk_malQMlFu6OONHvqzJ4uxXrHSzDi/s1600/6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3CR5WJLRSG5Q-o0K9Jooi2clDfAfNXgNZI3IhJAFg7lrp_k-Tea_wDmePMfmVfW4GuXvTy7kAgOXoEnLP_UTa8OYBxDW3iuncjaZ2F8Bf6VH7psfk_malQMlFu6OONHvqzJ4uxXrHSzDi/s640/6.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not happy with the excess fabric on the front bodice</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8gGSUOt7-JTbc5pPFnZUMH9a3qflovmKyoG7IsdG8chlnXQUJitS3C52Jwra1qAVNKeKuoqNaKjYCl44-ZhDAlCezYy74NtTn24I7IfMC9Mv_hOAXtaUs7z9ZDcrk04O5k4uom4KOa4p/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8gGSUOt7-JTbc5pPFnZUMH9a3qflovmKyoG7IsdG8chlnXQUJitS3C52Jwra1qAVNKeKuoqNaKjYCl44-ZhDAlCezYy74NtTn24I7IfMC9Mv_hOAXtaUs7z9ZDcrk04O5k4uom4KOa4p/s400/7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SBA done… only after I have made the dress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br />The Fabric</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I used 2.1m (2.3yard) Japanese Lawn (112cm width) from
Spotlight. For a size 4, The amount is much less than the yardage on the
envelope. The lawn is good quality and I like a dotted blue floral pattern very
much. It’s very light and drapey. In that sense, the skirt doesn’t have a big volume
but is very flowy. <br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHcy_ZyQQ2OF2fQ9U16XogwweNiUGn8v7qyocv4_o-6Jyof5_Mw4sBBh58qmNs2Y4ugRJfgMl_sex8SNgxTyH-TAOTbCX46yiyzTJ8528TH3vYJJ-WUZgbtF5cpLX4KVtZ3j6vipsp0xLl/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHcy_ZyQQ2OF2fQ9U16XogwweNiUGn8v7qyocv4_o-6Jyof5_Mw4sBBh58qmNs2Y4ugRJfgMl_sex8SNgxTyH-TAOTbCX46yiyzTJ8528TH3vYJJ-WUZgbtF5cpLX4KVtZ3j6vipsp0xLl/s400/8.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pattern Layout for the bodice and facings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b>
<b>What’s next?</b><br />
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There were lots of sales and specials during Christmas
time and I am sure lots of you must've grabbed some bargains. I bought some Colette
Patterns at 30% off and McCall’s Patterns for $5 each. I am making a couple of
them at the moment and hopefully I can finish soon. <br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh08YZa3NZBW4Z_3x5P_WPJ64IYwt53UMtIf5sVR2vhOLLgRXzET31mYRhaAIp9OYbgo3Kr0Uv0SVtQR8TYTx4kvdTIo3r5ib2HcOxe08PYgc9-aTgkWHNrTNUvYPWEFvEQP0QAA28jiJ3x/s1600/DSC09031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh08YZa3NZBW4Z_3x5P_WPJ64IYwt53UMtIf5sVR2vhOLLgRXzET31mYRhaAIp9OYbgo3Kr0Uv0SVtQR8TYTx4kvdTIo3r5ib2HcOxe08PYgc9-aTgkWHNrTNUvYPWEFvEQP0QAA28jiJ3x/s320/DSC09031.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rue, McCall's M7116 and Aster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-72060733399094188992016-11-05T01:57:00.000+11:002016-11-05T01:57:00.547+11:00Burda 03/2015 #118: Piped Dress<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--> I have made a few things that I haven't blogged about over the last couple of years. Now my blog is catching up with my sewing. This dress is one of them. I started making this dress in mid 2015 and finished it at the end of 2015. Yep... that's a more than a year ago.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQm6Pzd67ZARsCdfmpJbEzkp9B9UCJazhz1OauVtvnrtSvLqpLE-l6Q8P6kf8-zn9NLYScJs4XAGqrRXck_nrPDUPbIVnhGsyBVuCUh-UAAzn3akY_qlddtyo1_N2aSuMVEVJ1g-sK95W/s1600/002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQm6Pzd67ZARsCdfmpJbEzkp9B9UCJazhz1OauVtvnrtSvLqpLE-l6Q8P6kf8-zn9NLYScJs4XAGqrRXck_nrPDUPbIVnhGsyBVuCUh-UAAzn3akY_qlddtyo1_N2aSuMVEVJ1g-sK95W/s640/002.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
So I here present the Piped Seamed Dress from Burda 03/2015 #118. I initially
wanted to use this project for the Burda's Ultimate Member Model Challenge in
April 2015. But the lazy me did not finish it in time. Then came
winter, so I put it aside for six months. I decided to finish it in summer late
last year.... It could be a long story but finally I am putting it up.<br />
<br />
I used only 1.5 meters of light-weight floral drill (120cm wide) for this project.<br />
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV0RDJVaVo3GD6NpGW082drloMzxXv7QegduJ0KUhDabkWl8ZDAvw3Q2qitvztn7PiAI14Cco0FrmRli8hVhoBoMbOUQQVeLuferRoLQwxllYNT2adZb0HyhtIyehgSRFs1OdDYw1uvRo3/s1600/DSC08845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV0RDJVaVo3GD6NpGW082drloMzxXv7QegduJ0KUhDabkWl8ZDAvw3Q2qitvztn7PiAI14Cco0FrmRli8hVhoBoMbOUQQVeLuferRoLQwxllYNT2adZb0HyhtIyehgSRFs1OdDYw1uvRo3/s640/DSC08845.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
It felt like a breeze to wear this dress out for a coffee with friends on a
sunny warm day.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4qAapMO03rJITNkaDVCQT5v4iVHxpocXkFO6anABIwBOmeY-Odp9rzCFMmyB6uavIjV-3ktEHvCwOepKqEmMPvwS7S3p3efsahybHL7hPcCNUkjlPRXKomNXuPElgbLxmw1u74nZaS1J/s1600/DSC08867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4qAapMO03rJITNkaDVCQT5v4iVHxpocXkFO6anABIwBOmeY-Odp9rzCFMmyB6uavIjV-3ktEHvCwOepKqEmMPvwS7S3p3efsahybHL7hPcCNUkjlPRXKomNXuPElgbLxmw1u74nZaS1J/s640/DSC08867.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<br />
I also want to mention that I went to some wood working class this year and make a stool. It's perfect for sitting at my cutting table which is higher than a normal table so it doesn't hurt my back. <br />
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We adopted a cat in March this year. Cloud has brought us so much joy. I love
to feature him in my photos, although he is not friendly toward photo shooting :)<br />
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<br />cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-71664757966105150212016-11-01T01:43:00.000+11:002016-11-01T01:55:42.010+11:00A gathered dress: by Cotton FriendAs you may have noticed, I haven't blogged much the last couple years. I have been sewing though, on and off. Now, in the 10th month of 2016, I finally got my sew-jo and blog-jo back! And it's all thanks to this dress.<br />
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My friend just came back from Taiwan and brought me two new <i style="font-weight: bold;">Cotton Friend</i> magazines. It's a Chinese sewing magazine that has been translated from the original Japanese version. There are lots of fabulous bags, aprons, and casual clothing patterns. The clothing is of a very Japanese style - simple, loose, baggy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton Friend sewing magazine</td></tr>
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As gratitude, I let her choose a dress to make for her. And she did:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">model 1 from the magazine</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Model 2 from the magazine</td></tr>
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<b>The fabric</b><br />
The fabric is printed Japanese lawn. My friend chose this pattern. It's $12 (Australian) per metre. I'm sure it'd be much cheaper in Japan (oh yeah, forgot to mentioned I went to Japan twice last two years. Maybe I'll blog about the fabric shopping there). The lawn is soft and smooth, perfect for this dress. It needs 2.6 metres of fabric.<br />
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<b>The dress</b><br />
The dress has a gathered neckline, waistline and puffy sleeves. It only has three pattern pieces. The only not-so-easy part of the dress is making the casing for the elastic band, but it's good practice for me and I think I will be faster with elastic next time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVN3XjsWv6qSRS-QIzFsuOTfkoXmURzAw6sODLAi04vf7s6_Rif-g3dS8xjDte3gYS2aNybB_cQkPMSvCEW03cJM4sbQU1EvbFH-jrYGsQEKC-hSn0vTw8E35t3MPhpcYP6iodRGQTZIE/s1600/full+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVN3XjsWv6qSRS-QIzFsuOTfkoXmURzAw6sODLAi04vf7s6_Rif-g3dS8xjDte3gYS2aNybB_cQkPMSvCEW03cJM4sbQU1EvbFH-jrYGsQEKC-hSn0vTw8E35t3MPhpcYP6iodRGQTZIE/s640/full+1.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made size M. No adjustment is needed. The dress fits her perfectly.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pattern is very easy. </td></tr>
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I made this dress with her. It took me five hours in total from tracing the pattern to finish. It's a long time for a simple project like this but it's because I hadn't sewn a dress in a long time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRrXiSgOZAGftwH-ydLv2ZzOUzvFzLLtzSLpCCBaIH8uwGIzJzC15rcIUIWz94zXlhEwLHi2CxWrkvPR0niTzRJXgy-BFMswGhmx25Ge2nXQrUIFliWFCUaaO4mqZmTmzaaUdU_mfSjOD/s1600/full+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRrXiSgOZAGftwH-ydLv2ZzOUzvFzLLtzSLpCCBaIH8uwGIzJzC15rcIUIWz94zXlhEwLHi2CxWrkvPR0niTzRJXgy-BFMswGhmx25Ge2nXQrUIFliWFCUaaO4mqZmTmzaaUdU_mfSjOD/s640/full+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like the gathered raglan sleeves. </td></tr>
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Both she and I are happy with the result. It looks exactly the same as the one in the magazine. I particularly like the puffy sleeves matching the puffiness in the bodice.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtnQaVziEJdS7W40ZLAM6CRpf6cW73BzV_zGgbEo3VrQoafZNgL-lq5G-R53qV3QalL-GtQ3zG8mLoucoKlkWotxDcvOCA-_3IW_mcTD4HY-OxyTdTNLsLASl7MCGAVLWY5p3endETvi3/s1600/full+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtnQaVziEJdS7W40ZLAM6CRpf6cW73BzV_zGgbEo3VrQoafZNgL-lq5G-R53qV3QalL-GtQ3zG8mLoucoKlkWotxDcvOCA-_3IW_mcTD4HY-OxyTdTNLsLASl7MCGAVLWY5p3endETvi3/s640/full+3.jpg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks just like the one on the magazine.</td></tr>
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<br />cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-21233282882010004812016-05-05T00:17:00.000+10:002016-05-05T00:17:05.687+10:00First time quilting - A Baby Boy Quilt (Cars)Dear sewist friends, have you ever been tempted to make a quilt?
I took the plunge! Yes I have started quilting!
The motivator was my that my friend was having a baby soon and I wanted to make a baby quilt for the new born and first time mum.<br />
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I gathered some ideas online and fixed my eye on this design.<br />
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To my surprise, I was able to find the ‘car’ fabric from my local quilting shop. The rest was easy, some shades of blue and aqua.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preshinking the fabric</td></tr>
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It’s an easy patchwork for the quilt top. I drew it on paper to work how many pieces of 3x3” for each colour.
[pic of drawing]
Then next thing is cutting. Of course I added ¼ seam allowance. We all know that a quilt is make of three layers (we call it sandwiches): the quilt top, the batting and the backing. Now that I had made the quilt top, next thing was to quilt the three layers together.
This is showtime for my beloved Bernina 440.<br />
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<b>Binding </b><br />
Binding is the last thing. Please note, different to dressmaking, binding in a quilt is not a BIAS strip. They use straight strips! I found the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vCWpxBRs20&list=LLRDGr-t5oQBa3mfEk_u3DwA&index=9" target="_blank">this video</a> from Missouri Star Quilt Company on binding. What an absolute help!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-k-fIqXQtu76CaSJtnZe3FdOanfG1-5SDjFl21CmG1cJ6f9izqFp563P6KahsDC_7wJ1KD-JXzubO2TdnigG4M6RYc7l3dmSs9g92KmcwXtvpFZb0vfglzMO18lPnbb1IRCGQxFnmvUU/s1600/DSC08700_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-k-fIqXQtu76CaSJtnZe3FdOanfG1-5SDjFl21CmG1cJ6f9izqFp563P6KahsDC_7wJ1KD-JXzubO2TdnigG4M6RYc7l3dmSs9g92KmcwXtvpFZb0vfglzMO18lPnbb1IRCGQxFnmvUU/s640/DSC08700_1024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The quilting clips come in very handy when binding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYLVVcGjsHQD65dasFrxFAhzfgnwJ4N5tIzGiOlgnVeLtsjkjqs_qhomzXj8jMunN55vxwQ5RT23lQ5yTMBJA_qD22kzP66oEtAW5biwbVIirA0llge2c4YctFRgQZIvVdvC4G9-XPBjC/s1600/DSC08708_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYLVVcGjsHQD65dasFrxFAhzfgnwJ4N5tIzGiOlgnVeLtsjkjqs_qhomzXj8jMunN55vxwQ5RT23lQ5yTMBJA_qD22kzP66oEtAW5biwbVIirA0llge2c4YctFRgQZIvVdvC4G9-XPBjC/s640/DSC08708_1024.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Add the verdict is....<br />
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<br />cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-5960848973014802482015-03-16T00:17:00.001+11:002015-03-16T15:45:13.116+11:00Simple T-Shirt: By A Great British Sewing Bee...<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishY2I-tFVkHDiQ92nSFFKv7mlsyFDeno3iENlkXWBm-IbaoMLU9fT69bQ7LaPrmb9acnN57RvdR_LpjbLgsvls4lqDh1qY9ww8UAKdVBJabgV4hLMBrif1e5fPhPp5mLvOjovsT7_yZ9e/s1600/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishY2I-tFVkHDiQ92nSFFKv7mlsyFDeno3iENlkXWBm-IbaoMLU9fT69bQ7LaPrmb9acnN57RvdR_LpjbLgsvls4lqDh1qY9ww8UAKdVBJabgV4hLMBrif1e5fPhPp5mLvOjovsT7_yZ9e/s1600/front.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">"Simply T-Shirt"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I recently got the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Great-British-Sewing-Bee/dp/1849494142/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426424458&sr=1-2&keywords=British+Sewing+Bee" target="_blank"><i>Great British Sewing Bee: Sew Your Own Wardrobe</i> </a>Book. We can't get this show here in Australia, but I watch some episodes on Youtube. Of cause I adore the show as a sewer and find it very inspiring, but does the book live up to the show? In short, it is as inspiring as the show but it is not informative enough, in terms of sewing skills and techniques, again just as the show. Today I will just briefly review the book, and share one of the projects I made from the book - Simple T-Shirt.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3foBcuwdSh7oaWwNRm-aqV4P6BaBqYQr_L-ZSNU2YoH87gxD0F8CEgdJ-b_SHhD0KWhbOTpiOdFhiNW21_mFwXdELP9_9-nyr1wCf-VDeDnDP7pcHQPsohBTCcrvJADU9WLvc_K6E_mrv/s1600/front-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3foBcuwdSh7oaWwNRm-aqV4P6BaBqYQr_L-ZSNU2YoH87gxD0F8CEgdJ-b_SHhD0KWhbOTpiOdFhiNW21_mFwXdELP9_9-nyr1wCf-VDeDnDP7pcHQPsohBTCcrvJADU9WLvc_K6E_mrv/s1600/front-4.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Or call it Loose Blouse...</td></tr>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>The Book Review</b><br />
The book comes with a packet of full size pattern. The book is well packaged and contains beautiful photographs. Most importantly, the designs of the projects are very <i>up-to-date</i>. I really love this loose fit <i>Simple T-Shirt </i>that I made one for myself straight away.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVCv33GzwWmkLVuxnyra9Da2isgvdKZNEc9HtyYS9obj0tH6g4TCKFVy0TG95Dow1z1_V9hyDEQY4s7L0-Ud5RtGMyDEFb5ir0Lj1ksdcYqHU-J2Uep6kV4f3TPdefx9E1x2efVEZRfI4/s1600/front-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVCv33GzwWmkLVuxnyra9Da2isgvdKZNEc9HtyYS9obj0tH6g4TCKFVy0TG95Dow1z1_V9hyDEQY4s7L0-Ud5RtGMyDEFb5ir0Lj1ksdcYqHU-J2Uep6kV4f3TPdefx9E1x2efVEZRfI4/s1600/front-3.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The Good:<br />
1) The full size patterns (projects) are the main reason I got this book. From baby to menswear, from a everyday blouse to a prom dress.<br />
2) I like the master class after every project. I learnt some new information there<br />
3) The overall packaging of the book and the photos are so inspiring that I am itching to sew its projects.<br />
<br />
The bad:<br />
1) The book is more for beginners. If you are at a more advanced level, you will probably find there is no new information here<br />
2) The sewing instructions for the projects are not detailed and often omit illustrations for difficult steps.<br />
3) I want more projects!!<br />
<br />
<b>The Simple T-Shirt</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98N-srXSmgAY3lMw-MVLhCnHM6OX2QOv4vL19GoxhMZabXXSUav_mVaACtqgvRRxGj-RajI3-9Kjd07wFoBeRLSUmu7ptUfBomBR1tq08uPFTznRXmBlSHjQg0QKkf-JCe2xWgOEdY-hl/s1600/front-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98N-srXSmgAY3lMw-MVLhCnHM6OX2QOv4vL19GoxhMZabXXSUav_mVaACtqgvRRxGj-RajI3-9Kjd07wFoBeRLSUmu7ptUfBomBR1tq08uPFTznRXmBlSHjQg0QKkf-JCe2xWgOEdY-hl/s1600/front-2.jpg" height="640" width="464" /></a></div>
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I had not sewn a loose blouse before so when I saw this photo, I said to myself "I need to make it." It recommends using lightweight jersey. But I used a flowy crepe, with bold print. It requires extra care to handle the fabric, but it's a very good exercise if I plan to make some soft silk dress alike.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgclVsIORlCJxWL-7W8h9CUV7wJmAIUZFGVC1ZiK15wLQHIshteldxaDs14fXUuwXdFHoEPDdoDrBM9yhH8qFrRS-qyW-hw5Sx5t4m86qJv3cLHsocZ_GTbXgpl_EQyNF9RuPo-YktJSsnt/s1600/process.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgclVsIORlCJxWL-7W8h9CUV7wJmAIUZFGVC1ZiK15wLQHIshteldxaDs14fXUuwXdFHoEPDdoDrBM9yhH8qFrRS-qyW-hw5Sx5t4m86qJv3cLHsocZ_GTbXgpl_EQyNF9RuPo-YktJSsnt/s1600/process.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used 70/10 Sharp needle.</td></tr>
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<br />
Another thing I learnt is making a smooth binding on the neckline and the sleeve hems (see below pictures). This is tricky. For a long time I always sewed ugly neckline bindings (not flat, with puckers). This time, I made huge progress. My trick is using <i>glue stick</i> when placing the bias strip along the neckline. Using glue stick in sewing is the biggest tip I have learned from making <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2015/02/first-time-shirtmaking-with-granville.html" target="_blank">Sewaholic's Granville Shirt</a>!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnYtu7xmK-prheX0IB4oFj5M40K0BTXCQYVkUXhJFbnWKrRjG4F0yxbsW_UCib0Shjp0QI6NdpIEU4UvTKg_tXrzgMdo9p0o9VMrXU56zmvtbO5OARSsjFbKf7GIfoK7__pRg4bcfUPkD/s1600/neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnYtu7xmK-prheX0IB4oFj5M40K0BTXCQYVkUXhJFbnWKrRjG4F0yxbsW_UCib0Shjp0QI6NdpIEU4UvTKg_tXrzgMdo9p0o9VMrXU56zmvtbO5OARSsjFbKf7GIfoK7__pRg4bcfUPkD/s1600/neckline.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Double-fold binding on the neckline. Can you see how smooth it is!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNa2LFf7DS0PTXxtiuwfCUJCgYWDFn6DAVFMDjsV9WlPQND7PP8V5V-Gn_O6bFZNdHgR1M-E5-XiEMfzLvjPxL4qMkJypXhMHqqS-z5Oh8ubFugt5FcdG9bPtV1CLhznwCU3_ShZcQ3yu/s1600/sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNa2LFf7DS0PTXxtiuwfCUJCgYWDFn6DAVFMDjsV9WlPQND7PP8V5V-Gn_O6bFZNdHgR1M-E5-XiEMfzLvjPxL4qMkJypXhMHqqS-z5Oh8ubFugt5FcdG9bPtV1CLhznwCU3_ShZcQ3yu/s1600/sleeve.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Single-fold binding on sleeve hem.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I must say this is one of my best made garments so far. Yes it seems simple but it took me lots of time on sewing the bias binding.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVafR_xj3IFGkpeu8qmaP2VGv2i3q9nQkIx50Q-m75YkaQlEwE-pklw8mMhcTJCrucl3V8VNLFfMx0hY36eOUVU3oHjKgQ6QRoarxL_FCfF-15EdPymcKDbWhJPlOMj7rBKnKkAEfGQkYI/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVafR_xj3IFGkpeu8qmaP2VGv2i3q9nQkIx50Q-m75YkaQlEwE-pklw8mMhcTJCrucl3V8VNLFfMx0hY36eOUVU3oHjKgQ6QRoarxL_FCfF-15EdPymcKDbWhJPlOMj7rBKnKkAEfGQkYI/s1600/back.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the uneven hem too</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Speaking of the Granville Shirt, I had made the second version as I promised in my last post. I will post it up tomorrow. Meanwhile, I will also further explore this book. So follow me for updates! <br />
<br />
What's your favorite sewing book? I love collecting and reading sewing books. I would love to know what you are reading. :)cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-38329382513923730932015-02-05T23:43:00.000+11:002017-02-21T12:03:07.172+11:00First Time Shirtmaking with Granville Shirt<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
How often do you wear the clothes you make? My answer is - not often. So I decided to make something I can wear on a day-to-day basis. I work in the office 9-5 so formal business shirts are essential in my wardrobe. I have quite a shirt collection. Out of all my shirts, my favourite is the pair of shirts I bought in Japan a few years ago. They fit extremely well. The fabric is smooth and soft but has enough crispness to give a shape. Unfortunately they are a bit worn out. I have more reason to make my own shirts now. <br />
<br />
I dug out all my shirt patterns from my collection. Geez, I have accumulated a lot over the years but have not made any of them. I borrowed the book <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646">Shirtmaking: Developing Skills For Fine Sewing</a></i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646"><i> </i>by David Coffin</a>. It's the best sewing resource book I have read so far. I am very glad I read it as it made my first time shirtmaking much easier. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My collection for tops.. what's next?</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
I recently came across the new <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/granville-shirt/" target="_blank">Granville shirt pattern</a> from Sewaholic. Having made two of their patterns (<a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Alma%20Top">Alma blouse</a> and <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Cambie%20dress">Cambie dress</a>), I have a lot of faith in the brand. At first glance, the instruction looks very detailed and clear. I decided to start my shirtmaking journey with this pattern.<br />
<br />
Granville shirt has all the elements of a classic shirt – Yoke, sleeve, sleeve band, collar stand, front and sleeve plackets, rolled hem. Most importantly, compared to all my other shirt patterns, this pattern is more fitted to the body.<br />
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<b>Fabric</b><br />
I used a light-weight striped-woven cotton shirting fabric. The stripes are subtle so I did not pay much attention on matching the lines but I did recut the pockets to match the stripes because they are on the front of the shirt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6jSBOXOzsWpZhetRy2DTtTb9pis2chp3DfDWPm2cavYjsnH2mKrUWVS-XkaJt4DPO98cn8xvGuIg9QWNIHiXZZmHpReVfQxFhunqUipkXf-qoDWANbEg987pe0CVeV1G8E66g6khlMpH/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6jSBOXOzsWpZhetRy2DTtTb9pis2chp3DfDWPm2cavYjsnH2mKrUWVS-XkaJt4DPO98cn8xvGuIg9QWNIHiXZZmHpReVfQxFhunqUipkXf-qoDWANbEg987pe0CVeV1G8E66g6khlMpH/s1600/2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matching the strips</td></tr>
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For interfacing, I used fusible woven muslin from Spotlight. I hesitated a lot on the interfacing. I have bought a lot more other types and brands of interfacing from other sewing supplies stores. I plan to try out different types to see which one gives the best result. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVqDY_ux-kNbxM90fS3d_qCNUekXzYo6d45ZuZqciambtx6G_teTKSnGpAgiCIgkHeL9kvSYsusOp_XdflQwlzzs5BQ441mBPxpjSZc2o4WFV5npqsi3bQ28wmXK5H2wEAPHX9ex0W9FE/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTVqDY_ux-kNbxM90fS3d_qCNUekXzYo6d45ZuZqciambtx6G_teTKSnGpAgiCIgkHeL9kvSYsusOp_XdflQwlzzs5BQ441mBPxpjSZc2o4WFV5npqsi3bQ28wmXK5H2wEAPHX9ex0W9FE/s1600/11.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interfacing I got from Spotlight. </td></tr>
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I managed to squeeze all the pattern pieces into 1.75 m fabric (112cm width). I notice the yardage chart by Sewaholic often asks for much more fabric. I really want to know what is the least yardage, considering good quality shirting fabric is often expensive. Here is my pattern layout.<br />
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<b>Fitting</b><br />
I cut size 4 and it fits me easily, although that's the base on their size chart, I should be size 6.<br />
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Lots of the reviews are saying the sleeves are unnecessarily long. I have shortened the sleeve by 2 cm and the shirt by 1cm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ZVUD9fzxhwEb3C3LQlr91ZP1GLQ-WuSuiJ79U1b8ZxhGL7TUDov4zY_gpdrKt8VXMnzGP-SGOY_a3GGLetzkFTkmtiAlHFUApgxThvDLjXZsHX50ExxA8ec8ylEdUAIoqhWKomttxG9D/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ZVUD9fzxhwEb3C3LQlr91ZP1GLQ-WuSuiJ79U1b8ZxhGL7TUDov4zY_gpdrKt8VXMnzGP-SGOY_a3GGLetzkFTkmtiAlHFUApgxThvDLjXZsHX50ExxA8ec8ylEdUAIoqhWKomttxG9D/s1600/7.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think size 4 is right, although it still needs a bit more adjustment (commented below)</td></tr>
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<b>Construction</b><br />
It took me a long time to make this shirt. This is mainly because lots of the processes were new to me and I kept looking for resources and learning new skills and techniques. For instance, if you never make a sleeve placket before, you have to be patient about learning the steps, i.e. which bits to fold and press, where to stitch etc. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3I6IvC1jKKAujufDTld_MI4GVRI2HNGsrsC3QrBb824tlYdKIfgHcOoNUv2BFN6Tkl93raWhnb2Q3jBzZz4U5p0aIoLeXclDYsmkKqJwEXH-JuShV80lkgzRY_CpdrrN95W9Hkf8pO6Bw/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3I6IvC1jKKAujufDTld_MI4GVRI2HNGsrsC3QrBb824tlYdKIfgHcOoNUv2BFN6Tkl93raWhnb2Q3jBzZz4U5p0aIoLeXclDYsmkKqJwEXH-JuShV80lkgzRY_CpdrrN95W9Hkf8pO6Bw/s1600/3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing the shoulder seam</td></tr>
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It’s definitely worth watching some Youtube and reading some blog posts before sewing (if you are a newbie on shirtmaking). I found the following links extremely useful:<br />
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For sleeve placket: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwOQMrYzNqg" target="_blank">ANGELA KANE Sewing TV</a><br />
For a sharp collar point:<a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2011/11/30/perfect-points-tutorial/" target="_blank"> grainlinestudio blog</a><br />
For sewing collar and collar stand: <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com.au/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html" target="_blank">foursquarewalls blog</a><br />
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<b>Things I have learnt</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Use iron spray to achieve crisp edges.</li>
<li>Press along as you sew. I found it extremely useful and give a very good result.</li>
<li>Match the stripes for the pocket on the shirt front if you are sewing a stripe.</li>
<li>Use good quality interfacing material</li>
</ol>
<b>Things to improve</b><br />
<ol>
<li>The sleeves are still too long. I will further shorten them by another 2.5cm (1 inch) next time. </li>
<li>I find the pockets are too big on my shirt. Please note there is only one size for the pocket pattern. So that means the pocket is the same for a size 4 shirt and a size 20 shirt! I pulled out my other RTW shirt and they are smaller. </li>
<li>I would also like to change the shape of the cuff a little bit, just to add a small curve at the corners as my other RTW. I think it’s more practical for wearing and easier to sew.</li>
<li>I also want to slim down the flaring at the bottom of the shirt and lengthen the side seams a little bit. This is because I usually wear shirts under cardigans and I don’t like excess fabric underneath. </li>
</ol>
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For beginners, making a shirt can be an overwhelming process but it’s also extremely rewarding. There are lots of techniques used in there that can benefit me sewing other garments, and the end result is often surprising, mainly thanks to the neatness from the edgestitching and topstitching. I have worn this shirt to work and it's fabulous. I am totally addicted to it and making the second shirt with some Cotton Lawn (up next). <br />
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Happy sewing. <br />
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<i>Feel free to leave comments about anything :)</i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">
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<![endif]-->cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-31257232825623656712015-01-18T11:12:00.000+11:002015-01-18T11:12:04.582+11:00Strap Back and Half Circle Skirt: Simplicity 1651<div class="MsoNormal">
I opted to do a simple project this time. I went with Simplicity 1651. It has two bodice designs and two skirt design. I chose the sweetheart neckline and strap back for the bodice and the half circle skirt. There is no lining but only neckline facing and bias binding on the armscyes. Sounds easy, huh?! It didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped mainly because I had some minor issues on the fitting and the bust darts.<br />
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<b>Fitting</b><br />
The bust darts turned out to be way too high, almost sitting on my upper bust. It really damaged the shape of the dress! It may be partly because I cut size 8 at the shoulders, 10 at the bust and 12 at the waist so the shoulder seam pulls the dress up. I think the bust darts should be moved down by at least 1 inch.</div>
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As I cut a much smaller size at the shoulders, the armholes are also too small. I think I should cut size 10 and do a SBA next time.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKUfwpurjjZLNjiZaXPL2lGXypAJFkL7OphF3d_gAsSgb9JYOYlWYU8gy5eJw0eBx5sGEXg_WbqYjfkCwmf88qDgJtmQXn7v7lW5FEH8r5L7g0gJqAxBfYVtX-ZMrenSKbd2P1Nx25YH4t/s1600/darts+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKUfwpurjjZLNjiZaXPL2lGXypAJFkL7OphF3d_gAsSgb9JYOYlWYU8gy5eJw0eBx5sGEXg_WbqYjfkCwmf88qDgJtmQXn7v7lW5FEH8r5L7g0gJqAxBfYVtX-ZMrenSKbd2P1Nx25YH4t/s1600/darts+1.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bust darts are too high</td></tr>
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<b>Fabric</b></div>
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The fabric is cotton lawn with print. When I first bought it, it felt smooth and looked very good on the bolt. But after a pre-shrink, it feels stiffer and the colour looks dull. Well what can I say? I only paid $4 per meter. I guess I got what I paid for.<br />
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I think I should use Sateen next time, something that is heavier in weight.</div>
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<b>Construction</b></div>
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The construction is not hard. The only problem I had is when attaching the back bands, I found the bands did not lie flat after I matched the notches. As shown on the photo below, the upper edge of the band has more tension than the lower edge. I had to unpick the seam and lay the bodice on my dummy to fit the band.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirFmkdMuwOMK34fSsfzIyYMw3P6fs2O0QbcYcueEd9d8DDXhpkZsdVLraJ-fo5724Ze1sJwNOd1afUjN_j8_8SanSwwRylDisJRjw4tLwFGFONgTSrjizBbSNrgytXV619-tKolG6zq-gi/s1600/back+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirFmkdMuwOMK34fSsfzIyYMw3P6fs2O0QbcYcueEd9d8DDXhpkZsdVLraJ-fo5724Ze1sJwNOd1afUjN_j8_8SanSwwRylDisJRjw4tLwFGFONgTSrjizBbSNrgytXV619-tKolG6zq-gi/s1600/back+1.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gap under the straps</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pin the strap on the dummy to ensure they are flat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiq6GmfSCumnmkqg1n7Krdnvp9O46zPdr5lbeHju6FiSXV-Aga2ePcTz5ebt84fXuJ7OVQw3ztPi4ht7U3Jeqglkb5lSQ-Xtndr3ujD5VRJ88KpNUOmTZfsig0Hy5nQ9r427MdcRKwYDsB/s1600/back+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiq6GmfSCumnmkqg1n7Krdnvp9O46zPdr5lbeHju6FiSXV-Aga2ePcTz5ebt84fXuJ7OVQw3ztPi4ht7U3Jeqglkb5lSQ-Xtndr3ujD5VRJ88KpNUOmTZfsig0Hy5nQ9r427MdcRKwYDsB/s1600/back+2.jpg" height="400" width="398" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adjustment on the stitch line of the straps</td></tr>
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Another little challenge is the construction of the v-point at the back. One of the first dresses I made when I first started sewing is <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/butterick-5603-dress.html" target="_blank">Butterick 5603</a>. Back then I was confused when constructing a similar v-shaped back bodice, but his time I did better. I took some photos on how to clip the seam allowance at the v-point so they can be pressed flat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXQQNUmIQ0A5AF-momNjnd_Lw99s8jP2s3bYP2N0FHx_k4wmGzxxztLl72vgewVPx9ClMWtlREUAqVtB-BdfouKWtDRTxXAZ0ebIYGDEHG5DZloGHYcxv00eFB45ACXATH3BNEbxoZQtP/s1600/v+point+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXQQNUmIQ0A5AF-momNjnd_Lw99s8jP2s3bYP2N0FHx_k4wmGzxxztLl72vgewVPx9ClMWtlREUAqVtB-BdfouKWtDRTxXAZ0ebIYGDEHG5DZloGHYcxv00eFB45ACXATH3BNEbxoZQtP/s1600/v+point+1.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdme4hD8zDJaS_jElDk23Bi8TYpAZn7KZnRLV71YBkOdUPFgFQQvtn0hd7ZQtw0HTLM2kOHCCfASE3GN1PdoqB3KvtByoR-Jv8pK0I6ZOuXgWSMgNc9ePUlME6fYTE6dlqi53u_47PF7o/s1600/v+point.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdme4hD8zDJaS_jElDk23Bi8TYpAZn7KZnRLV71YBkOdUPFgFQQvtn0hd7ZQtw0HTLM2kOHCCfASE3GN1PdoqB3KvtByoR-Jv8pK0I6ZOuXgWSMgNc9ePUlME6fYTE6dlqi53u_47PF7o/s1600/v+point.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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The pattern calls for an invisible zip at the side seam under the armhole. It's a bit fiddly when sewing the bias binding over the top of the zip at the bottom of the armhole. I believe I still need to improve this useful technique.<br />
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<b>Material list:</b><br />
Cotton poly blend lawn 140cm wide: 1.50m x $4 = $6<br />
18" invisible zip<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJCTUMSvBpqlThWc9vfrq-WULSJLGpTCrw_mpzCQRYZ5_uUZBL7swMSknQ1hFa5czADNOY0NMZtez463Usv4PbmG-xLW6OiiT1ACY_EH-3DLNCOjnymn35oh2KwtWTMzD-5EO-4MGhV7tt/s1600/side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJCTUMSvBpqlThWc9vfrq-WULSJLGpTCrw_mpzCQRYZ5_uUZBL7swMSknQ1hFa5czADNOY0NMZtez463Usv4PbmG-xLW6OiiT1ACY_EH-3DLNCOjnymn35oh2KwtWTMzD-5EO-4MGhV7tt/s1600/side.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Conclusion... and what's next...</b><br />
I am really not a big fan of the side seam zip. It irritates me and scratches my skin. Well it's also because I cut the shoulder seam too small. If I have the patience to make this pattern again, there are lots of areas to improve. I would like to try the twisted bodice next time too.<br />
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This is the first time I made a half circle skirt. I am not sure whether I like it or not. I think I have enough flare skirts in my wardrobe now. Now the exciting news is that I just started making shirts, and am currently working on <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/granville-shirt/" target="_blank">Sewaholic's Granville Shirt.</a> I hope I have the review up very soon.<br />
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-8100579930187597392014-12-31T01:34:00.002+11:002015-02-14T00:10:53.967+11:00Elisalex Dress took my holiday awayMy Christmas was stolen by this dress. I am drained from making this <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/elisalex-dress">Elisalex Dress by BHL</a>. Let me go back to <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/10/vogue-8944-colour-block-dress.html">my post in October</a> where I was saying I just started working on this dress. And guess what? it dragged on for two months. I thought it should be a quick job but it ended up I almost abandoned the half done dress. Anyhow, I forced myself to finish it today and here it is:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the look from the back, specially the neckline <3</td></tr>
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<b>Fabric</b><br />
I used cotton satteem with lovely floral prints and poly lining. The prints turns out very pretty on the dress, I was surprised.<br />
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<b>Fitting and pattern changes</b><br />
If you know about this pattern, you would notice my tulip skirt is much slimmer than those on their models. This is the biggest problem! I spend countless hours to fit the skirt. I made a muslin (I actually made it on real fabric but the first time of sewing didn't go well so I made it muslin.) and I really don't like the big tulip skirt. It is humongous! No way I would wear it out onto the street!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXIdI3AtwcUZguzsKefdn03fAdyf2SGC3YQi2NR8G2V1mxP6D90ys7F3pIfuwYPMMOYX_ANUuFeBpsyvfnfP09wW7lPAyMfaGLkfAxRX9rSjq2nqR-mihxZKS4cvp5gC0wfGFoj3BpUEF/s1600/DSC08401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXIdI3AtwcUZguzsKefdn03fAdyf2SGC3YQi2NR8G2V1mxP6D90ys7F3pIfuwYPMMOYX_ANUuFeBpsyvfnfP09wW7lPAyMfaGLkfAxRX9rSjq2nqR-mihxZKS4cvp5gC0wfGFoj3BpUEF/s1600/DSC08401.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a fan of the giant tulip... I feel like I'm wearing a costume.</td></tr>
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Initially I also wanted to make the sleeves but the sleeve cap/crown is very flat on the pattern and it just doesn't fit my arm (as shown on the above photo). Grr.. I had to do a sleeveless version.<br />
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I also reduced the folds on the pleats and slimmed down the skirt a lot. This is NOT an easy process. I stitched up many seams on the skirt to test how much to take away and it took up a lot of time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDf7Yep2ywwexqOLvHfAz_YuvHIEGSu_j68ZvhfPZDRdeU0UaIDH5LcPuN1MbwanTGWikjMVqS5TcRKJka0BO5arEBh8l0QwSUk4Ifk0mVlSvJDswzPZwFJb6SIEPcm9DNZfbXtrGxwqeH/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDf7Yep2ywwexqOLvHfAz_YuvHIEGSu_j68ZvhfPZDRdeU0UaIDH5LcPuN1MbwanTGWikjMVqS5TcRKJka0BO5arEBh8l0QwSUk4Ifk0mVlSvJDswzPZwFJb6SIEPcm9DNZfbXtrGxwqeH/s1600/4.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally... A smile on my face because it's DONE.</td></tr>
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I found another fitting issue after I completed the dress. Look at the side view below. The side seams swaying towards the front, instead of being vertical to the ground. It's very unpleasant. I am just not sure what went wrong.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcX3vwprejG7uekGqTN3e8w8IbDuaISK0S91eYZdnUTbk27G0eBco9YpQJO-_9zRdycybCnrRnVrWtT2wL_7u71v9PelIf4p6fSthmv_iQanlpvRrMPXYs6XeNC7IHCUe67JFTROW9dzdi/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcX3vwprejG7uekGqTN3e8w8IbDuaISK0S91eYZdnUTbk27G0eBco9YpQJO-_9zRdycybCnrRnVrWtT2wL_7u71v9PelIf4p6fSthmv_iQanlpvRrMPXYs6XeNC7IHCUe67JFTROW9dzdi/s1600/8.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The side seams are pointing to the front.</td></tr>
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<b>Constructions</b><br />
The dress is very straightforward to make. I find the instructions are not the best as they omit some steps and the order of the steps is a little bit confusing where steps for different versions are inserted in between. However, By Hand London has the most comprehensive sew-alongs on their website and I highly recommend checking out their blogs as part of the pattern instructions.<br />
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I admit I got more practice on sewing princess seams, sewing pleats and adding linings on invisible zips as these are the major techniques used in this pattern. For princess seams, I always like to press them open and clip on the curves. It gives very smooth seams.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKqWo1jaPLf1rcqvrAcoFVjm6m6L2clr5bpzSKzEa5C7G43DaJFZZnewW2ivf78F0ptY096pc_2dyjKw4PzciJSEwZn8Hsi15bevXPae2Bl63TyW2Pfm_ujNGHWRS9dafaDNGDrjUOFXYd/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKqWo1jaPLf1rcqvrAcoFVjm6m6L2clr5bpzSKzEa5C7G43DaJFZZnewW2ivf78F0ptY096pc_2dyjKw4PzciJSEwZn8Hsi15bevXPae2Bl63TyW2Pfm_ujNGHWRS9dafaDNGDrjUOFXYd/s1600/2.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the princess seams and the pleats</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTBlCGG7eVXj2hMHnXNZ9vvGTcsIcHmbVDuIrZwsCSO7BEiwIqLD_3gEIzKykC0gwkl7CicjrJGQlyFaru17SfIje98W7ICd3Mc5dueZvTBKQLJwdktEScXb72Xx-xL1YwsnfIy3XWJN9Y/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTBlCGG7eVXj2hMHnXNZ9vvGTcsIcHmbVDuIrZwsCSO7BEiwIqLD_3gEIzKykC0gwkl7CicjrJGQlyFaru17SfIje98W7ICd3Mc5dueZvTBKQLJwdktEScXb72Xx-xL1YwsnfIy3XWJN9Y/s1600/3.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A vintage look</td></tr>
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Material list:<br />
Cotton Sateen (140cm wide): 1.4 m<br />
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<b>Overall </b><br />
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This is the second BHL pattern I made after <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/welcome-hot-days-with-by-hand-londons.html">my Georgia Dress</a>. I encountered fitting issues with both patterns and I am not sure if I will buy another patterns from them.<br />
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<b>Misc</b><br />
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How is everyone's Christmas/New Year Break so far? Busy sewing? I made some bunting as my Xmas project this year. The fabric I bought has got the print and the pattern and the cutting line. It’s very straight forward to make. I also bought the ribbons with the Christmas print. Doesn't it feel Christmassy?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9UNtPDGmISN2lUPXIAwQVXfbVjC18kFdxzGoONidxpqOPve4zx4Xfq-FHoveYM4i-f7T-xvbnYpOV4VdMwTDAJN3Xf8grcLzzMPWWSn1zr3eKDJz0Jivaoicc5dbi0s1c3RcUB4MA21QC/s1600/9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9UNtPDGmISN2lUPXIAwQVXfbVjC18kFdxzGoONidxpqOPve4zx4Xfq-FHoveYM4i-f7T-xvbnYpOV4VdMwTDAJN3Xf8grcLzzMPWWSn1zr3eKDJz0Jivaoicc5dbi0s1c3RcUB4MA21QC/s1600/9.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-90419107392942248012014-12-16T00:46:00.001+11:002014-12-16T01:23:04.706+11:00Simple Day Dress: Remake of Vogue 8944<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]-->I revisited Vogue 8944 this week. I made a <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/10/vogue-8944-colour-block-dress.html">colour block dress </a>from it last time. Despite all the fitting issues, I like a the horizontal seam on the bodice so much that I decided to give this pattern another go. I used a different knit fabric this time. I was very surprised with the fabric. It gives the dress a flaring silhouette.<br />
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Here's how it turned out, with a red belt and my favourite red shoes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3tgo2eij-10apRWaw8RDLKM4wc9v694BUARselgO8pLNnLNKbsVZqu0FroKrWxCzrVEP4id_92Kj9PlelgZs3EamayI64obs2vjr5yr_aiMMjLB2ZgRBecf9xAlBetXsq1gQfEM6jqj9k/s1600/41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3tgo2eij-10apRWaw8RDLKM4wc9v694BUARselgO8pLNnLNKbsVZqu0FroKrWxCzrVEP4id_92Kj9PlelgZs3EamayI64obs2vjr5yr_aiMMjLB2ZgRBecf9xAlBetXsq1gQfEM6jqj9k/s1600/41.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
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<b>The fabric</b><br />
I am not sure what the fabric is called. It seems to have two layers of knits. The right side has a stripe-like pattern and the wrong side is just black. It also stretches a little bit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvzOx1ks_iwsxAK-Cvr3KGXlgghtgVxM5uttq5g5RhshjctqnBp041KJAfPc0GM0A_nImI1GtV3kQfrwd8d0bOKngF-GUHsSRzar1u3WiKwsWgaagsYOkLrUtlKJwitzGZmoh6hc2d_cdl/s1600/0193292db2c8f06b6389d7284761af0266bbefda42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvzOx1ks_iwsxAK-Cvr3KGXlgghtgVxM5uttq5g5RhshjctqnBp041KJAfPc0GM0A_nImI1GtV3kQfrwd8d0bOKngF-GUHsSRzar1u3WiKwsWgaagsYOkLrUtlKJwitzGZmoh6hc2d_cdl/s1600/0193292db2c8f06b6389d7284761af0266bbefda42.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b>Sizing</b><br />
Since this is the second time I made the pattern, I am more familiar with the fitting. I cut it as size 6 and graded to size 8 at waist.<br />
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<b>Modifications</b><br />
I made a few changes to the pattern. I removed the back darts and the centre back zip. Both back bodice and back skirt were cut on the fold. Initially I wanted to replace the centre back zip with side seam zip. After I made all the effort to sew in the side seam zip, I realised I could pull over the dress without the zip open. Since the zip was really uncomfortable, I decided to unpick the zip and sew up the side seam!! Grrr! I hate unpicking..<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6uT9pu8nse4N685Lv6WfjuQFH4wmcuSvhYcBzzG55CyTa7x87RqjLvxYqsotzs3Y7F_jtY7V4-yd5wIn8EbR6sRhwrfj8rsRF_h_9jyXsEdSfMexZkIgmNl_mBaN-xOIiVq0JGI5gMsv/s1600/51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6uT9pu8nse4N685Lv6WfjuQFH4wmcuSvhYcBzzG55CyTa7x87RqjLvxYqsotzs3Y7F_jtY7V4-yd5wIn8EbR6sRhwrfj8rsRF_h_9jyXsEdSfMexZkIgmNl_mBaN-xOIiVq0JGI5gMsv/s1600/51.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the effort gone to waste.. I had to unpick the zip</td></tr>
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I removed the back darts and the centre back seam and cut the back pieces on the fold.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhHs-Wvjyze-PKLRIkzRfTLaq8Xc5MyjdVHn5AhyphenhyphenvUIkB2BTKSwVHIzPwTqLlgwbL8hmXyEaH7r4vwEHvfcxeDF_7G5NjSXb7gULyGd0nBNrNX9eMIlP3b7P_Y13bIsY1Ul5qhAzt3Cc7K/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhHs-Wvjyze-PKLRIkzRfTLaq8Xc5MyjdVHn5AhyphenhyphenvUIkB2BTKSwVHIzPwTqLlgwbL8hmXyEaH7r4vwEHvfcxeDF_7G5NjSXb7gULyGd0nBNrNX9eMIlP3b7P_Y13bIsY1Ul5qhAzt3Cc7K/s1600/21.jpg" height="400" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removing the back darts...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu5nsAWxgqnx86qfugoGR9Zg0O0Pxvu12rx-xOCHtHd3YAgftCx8gqJ9Oad86TiKJSsCL7eH4pwCUTouL7EYDOYSWvd5HsxW-6e741W3twJBuuekpM3XnM5PmYoPoy1z2AynI2zmcw-jm5/s1600/34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu5nsAWxgqnx86qfugoGR9Zg0O0Pxvu12rx-xOCHtHd3YAgftCx8gqJ9Oad86TiKJSsCL7eH4pwCUTouL7EYDOYSWvd5HsxW-6e741W3twJBuuekpM3XnM5PmYoPoy1z2AynI2zmcw-jm5/s1600/34.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seamless back</td></tr>
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I shortened the sleeves to almost a cap sleeve length. Initially I planned to make the sleeveless version, so I took away 1cm at the centre back to achieve a better fitting. This actually caused a big problem when I later decided to add short sleeves. My sleeves are now being pulled towards the back as you can see in the below photos. It really does not look good!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGAV-MoSeJEOvXuBA62fC75FFS_lzU1gRtKGKbzuZL11OT6Ej786qBbNPKZHwk8Ua12BGX-PN2PSG27K2GnsqxwX0QNVo2qkGbKYRa9nYC1VwOZZ6_lRSL9LhgjDCHZ40i7m12F8XSknID/s1600/01539ec4ab84fe290388fdd7415b53f640dce89215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGAV-MoSeJEOvXuBA62fC75FFS_lzU1gRtKGKbzuZL11OT6Ej786qBbNPKZHwk8Ua12BGX-PN2PSG27K2GnsqxwX0QNVo2qkGbKYRa9nYC1VwOZZ6_lRSL9LhgjDCHZ40i7m12F8XSknID/s1600/01539ec4ab84fe290388fdd7415b53f640dce89215.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wrinkles at the back of my arms </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTBVsq5U56fyWD2Bwfybzvf0sAl0WMlVL3h710Og9Rj2jNhkT8VfnHsUt5cIAInWeZzDdNpH8_43JY6NbPS55BB5KQQhIoMcB0ZjV1bKbVB8HXysQHUJGXH9Y5oxNl5l_ZKBcE38bHE4j/s1600/01d963493005928842e7615bb5decb0ac85520b8bc_00001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTBVsq5U56fyWD2Bwfybzvf0sAl0WMlVL3h710Og9Rj2jNhkT8VfnHsUt5cIAInWeZzDdNpH8_43JY6NbPS55BB5KQQhIoMcB0ZjV1bKbVB8HXysQHUJGXH9Y5oxNl5l_ZKBcE38bHE4j/s1600/01d963493005928842e7615bb5decb0ac85520b8bc_00001.jpg" height="400" width="397" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stripes are slanted towards the back, suggest unbalanced fitting.</td></tr>
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Sleeve fitting is definitely one area I need to study. I find it extremely difficult and there are not many resources talking about sleeves. Can anyone help me out here?<br />
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<b>The hem and neckline edges</b><br />
I have some exciting news. I recently had a new addition to my sewing family - Janome CoverPro 1000CP.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG9FpkAD50Ep7ceEQHQ3pkdNuCXOBtcJyP6dfuVi-cYg27vX3R7eX25PxDjAxvBfR7B8m1PBUMPsaqswHBJJInApOY5F_zWPPpfsfKPWB2ZnsMRI5TdkRMqGtEDmE1CuP3TrsZe8dRwrSM/s1600/61.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG9FpkAD50Ep7ceEQHQ3pkdNuCXOBtcJyP6dfuVi-cYg27vX3R7eX25PxDjAxvBfR7B8m1PBUMPsaqswHBJJInApOY5F_zWPPpfsfKPWB2ZnsMRI5TdkRMqGtEDmE1CuP3TrsZe8dRwrSM/s1600/61.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yay.. new member to my sewing family</td></tr>
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I would like to do a full review on the machine when I have more of a chance to play with it. So far I have only used it on this dress to do the neckline edges and the hem. There are some problems with the machine, e.g. it skips stitches when going through a few layers as shown below in the photo.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDk_gIBbwNFu6cLjEVEduxLHaINcteqQzHZqMVJd6b8lhN8JDqqnaqrgnPRO0QgRCGRRp_ImP2AjobzaYK_FiGkqBlj0u-vf91TublIs-wJkmpsFS3YKPyqgGZZva28n_ZcBjVqtpVXjT/s1600/72.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDk_gIBbwNFu6cLjEVEduxLHaINcteqQzHZqMVJd6b8lhN8JDqqnaqrgnPRO0QgRCGRRp_ImP2AjobzaYK_FiGkqBlj0u-vf91TublIs-wJkmpsFS3YKPyqgGZZva28n_ZcBjVqtpVXjT/s1600/72.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skipped stitches :(</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEXcFUxoC1bLKKA_SMuSeTF5SVy3nZFj8FaY3yJX-5M1RZVnd2bx6QFqW0zUIhbggPHxAnd-hWtt2dVoUV9mwFVJiql99IioX4qng21sE8vXCuvmL2_mL42z13mW4JgBSCSZPFy8lPWia0/s1600/71.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEXcFUxoC1bLKKA_SMuSeTF5SVy3nZFj8FaY3yJX-5M1RZVnd2bx6QFqW0zUIhbggPHxAnd-hWtt2dVoUV9mwFVJiql99IioX4qng21sE8vXCuvmL2_mL42z13mW4JgBSCSZPFy8lPWia0/s1600/71.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such professional result!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the hem, because it's on a curve and the fold will have some gather, I used a fusible tape to "glue" the hem before running it under the cover stitch machine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11ai8lZ_PK4HyabjPmMhZmjFnxWZVVx0O7HQmO0RPy7NuqiLNpQhvGqp9afjHM9CpesG8JWAn1NRsfRTrBvqk4dREjN76G8W2MxPtQl6iBIO_MHSIEQT4q5-bSEwNWGGgs6im18lBBW9r/s1600/81.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11ai8lZ_PK4HyabjPmMhZmjFnxWZVVx0O7HQmO0RPy7NuqiLNpQhvGqp9afjHM9CpesG8JWAn1NRsfRTrBvqk4dREjN76G8W2MxPtQl6iBIO_MHSIEQT4q5-bSEwNWGGgs6im18lBBW9r/s1600/81.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Applying fusible hemming tape</td></tr>
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<div>
Another thing I found after I finished the dress is, I should have matched the black and white stripes at the front bodice seams. Now two white stripes are sewn together and it looks unpleasant.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfSbC3LLTb9F7MR6cy8JvcgU-xK86wu9-dSQFEAxMTgP0PgwmRmHaxKApFeSxbcDX6VxLKuMzqHvnm5E4WzrJxeiTKqLXqFmqRAzZo4eKQjV8U_NGno23WcWTrkAXVovBl8N_SRX3bOGv/s1600/DSC08361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfSbC3LLTb9F7MR6cy8JvcgU-xK86wu9-dSQFEAxMTgP0PgwmRmHaxKApFeSxbcDX6VxLKuMzqHvnm5E4WzrJxeiTKqLXqFmqRAzZo4eKQjV8U_NGno23WcWTrkAXVovBl8N_SRX3bOGv/s1600/DSC08361.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">not quite happy with the front bodice seam... </td></tr>
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<div>
Material list:</div>
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Knits: 1.5 m x $4 = $6</div>
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<div>
Overall, I like how the dress turned out and the fitting issue on the sleeves may not be noticed by people when I wear it. The dress is very comfortable to wear and looks quite stylish with a thin belt and a pair of pumps. Plus, it's very easy to make, especially if you have a serger (overlocker) or cover stitch machine. </div>
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<b>Misc</b></div>
<div>
It's been almost a month since my last post. I said I was working on the By Hand London Elisalex dress on my post more than a month ago, but now I still have not posted anything about it... Well I DID work on it but encountered some issues with the fitting and I was so frustrated that I just put it aside.</div>
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Anyway, we seamstress also need to take some time off and enjoy life! As I am doing this blog post, I am actually in the beautiful Tasmania!! For those who ever think about coming down under, you must come to Tasmania! I am a big bush walk fan and Tas has some of the best walking tracks in Australia. </div>
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Yesterday we went to Wineglass Bay, and today we made the walk in the famous Cradle Mountain. After the walk in the Wineglass Bay, we encountered some friendly Wallabies at the car park. </div>
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-47535386831202158192014-11-16T15:18:00.000+11:002014-11-16T16:36:34.030+11:00PR sewing contest win, Road trip to Sydney, etcI am so psyched about my second place win in <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1925634">PatternReview's Natural Fibres Contest.</a> This is my first time entering a sewing contest and I came in second place. It's a big confidence boost for me. I also feel very graceful for the support within the sewing community. It's an amazing place to be and just makes me love sewing and sharing more.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ed2M1PYT5dwryEFxX1DmYZfqWX_svGjuVocquNhro1gDv0QMLWhueIefaDrlayW9VulawtHx4An4aLGP-SSq8QawwU0pj1oRMuIXDOjK55Gvn9RQPYd9udBS9eI4WKLZhBgt41VTINMM/s1600/Capture.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ed2M1PYT5dwryEFxX1DmYZfqWX_svGjuVocquNhro1gDv0QMLWhueIefaDrlayW9VulawtHx4An4aLGP-SSq8QawwU0pj1oRMuIXDOjK55Gvn9RQPYd9udBS9eI4WKLZhBgt41VTINMM/s1600/Capture.PNG" height="640" width="505" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snapshot of the contest page on PR</td></tr>
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I also would like to use this blog post to say thank you to my beloved husband. He plays a part on this blog too. He patiently waits and carries fabric bolts for me every time I am stuck in a fabric store. He helped take photos of me, and mostly importantly proof reads my English for my blog posts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4Oh0iJaBRjR00GSByFkW_29WXsJPwIpFB7WQkHvTRCuOrm8weQJsFGDdDV1Li-iCJuGmnL9p7dj3_Dyr6_dTH17FQPtLitM8oF0Lo43F4FvouWfrAewejSi3vbnb6Hr9sJq8c3Q9V-CH/s1600/IMG_3382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4Oh0iJaBRjR00GSByFkW_29WXsJPwIpFB7WQkHvTRCuOrm8weQJsFGDdDV1Li-iCJuGmnL9p7dj3_Dyr6_dTH17FQPtLitM8oF0Lo43F4FvouWfrAewejSi3vbnb6Hr9sJq8c3Q9V-CH/s1600/IMG_3382.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Us two</td></tr>
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What have I been up to recently? Not much sewing. My brother and sister in law came to visit me from China and we embarked a road trip to Sydney. We also toured around attractions in Victoria, like the Great Ocean Road, Puffing Billy train ride, and Phillip Island.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfeFOcSy4BTzfD66JZgfauXwrlFerVzvZT1aVkdAQD-lj4_1_qLmZIdZvW0scDZVQENKtrVkk9O84c7ERBv1MSUptswtiX4hLQDCePqA8LeIHJQfseM6J_UsOxS7DsuRMaX_Hk0v9nUVD/s1600/IMG_3164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfeFOcSy4BTzfD66JZgfauXwrlFerVzvZT1aVkdAQD-lj4_1_qLmZIdZvW0scDZVQENKtrVkk9O84c7ERBv1MSUptswtiX4hLQDCePqA8LeIHJQfseM6J_UsOxS7DsuRMaX_Hk0v9nUVD/s1600/IMG_3164.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Landmark - Sydney Opera House</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7PJZS8h2UOXjW-esIT3vJpCn7UbYj3MdKoVKhOyMt5rsdWJPrrqYPb2t5ySDx-RMcQGSv42zXBghekKZw0T0b3FdJ-Bfc_tspzIoxo0C85lixNZY6VWq74YuMwHcdBFX9k_V40jK4Di1o/s1600/IMG_3320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7PJZS8h2UOXjW-esIT3vJpCn7UbYj3MdKoVKhOyMt5rsdWJPrrqYPb2t5ySDx-RMcQGSv42zXBghekKZw0T0b3FdJ-Bfc_tspzIoxo0C85lixNZY6VWq74YuMwHcdBFX9k_V40jK4Di1o/s1600/IMG_3320.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ride on Puffing Billy (Melbourne)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jbiR6OlO96UaJa_v-aSbNyXHpCEIaF-SyckpMzq1tujYrzgsVcy9BBw72HkNg6pN7sU8buo3EALn2YKYxP7C5KcEDv9Sy0W6ZTLy02JHU8ZTEq-7rIqS00p5mUeOLOjUmXtaZgbZg2T2/s1600/IMG_3395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jbiR6OlO96UaJa_v-aSbNyXHpCEIaF-SyckpMzq1tujYrzgsVcy9BBw72HkNg6pN7sU8buo3EALn2YKYxP7C5KcEDv9Sy0W6ZTLy02JHU8ZTEq-7rIqS00p5mUeOLOjUmXtaZgbZg2T2/s1600/IMG_3395.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Bro and his wife</td></tr>
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Now that they have returned to China, I can't wait to get back into sewing. Christmas is not to far away and I believe lots of sewists or quilters have a tradition of doing a Christmas project. I have been considering that. Maybe I can dig out my unfinished Christmas apron from last year and finish it off or maybe I can do some Christmas bunting. Just something simple. <br />
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Enough rambling for now. I need to get something done and have it up by the next two weeks.cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-54174734768706973642014-10-20T00:30:00.000+11:002014-10-20T11:30:59.909+11:00Vogue 8944: Colour Block Dress<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;">I
almost overlooked this simple yet stylish Vogue pattern if not for fact that Spotlight kept discounting patterns. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;">The </span><b style="line-height: 107%;">fabric </b><span style="line-height: 107%;">I
used is double Ponte knits. It’s my first time sewing this fabric. It’s easy to
cut, comfortable to wear, although it’s a bit too thick or bulky at the seams. I
used three warm colour combination – grey, yellow and lilac.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;">The
<b>fitting</b> was not easy. I almost lose my patience and wanted to abandon the project. Based on the model photo, the
bodice looks fitted. But the pattern is actually very loose fitted. I had problem
with the back bodice – it’s way too wide even I cut a record small size of size
6! I still need to trim away 1 cm width at the centre back. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33KFPjukAtDD-4C4j_1jXN250y1rkf9Y0uNBQK_UqdJ6kJqkSNQcQ0tFpoO5iVQ32u-_kZBRmV8Tt0eVn-UL4_m9vBjMlv28ErQ88fV13x3PFtGxqchdl_VfCgOvEWGmN6t_lKhrxWPZ-/s1600/toil+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33KFPjukAtDD-4C4j_1jXN250y1rkf9Y0uNBQK_UqdJ6kJqkSNQcQ0tFpoO5iVQ32u-_kZBRmV8Tt0eVn-UL4_m9vBjMlv28ErQ88fV13x3PFtGxqchdl_VfCgOvEWGmN6t_lKhrxWPZ-/s1600/toil+2.jpg" height="400" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Armhole without adjustment</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;"><br></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 107%;">As
</span><a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/happy-vogue-8944-color-blocked-dress.html" style="line-height: 107%;">SunnyGal Studio </a><span style="line-height: 107%;">pointed out, the armhole needs reshaped. I have the final
pattern pieces here so you can see my adjustment. I also shorten the yoke by ¼ inch,
accordingly same to the back bodice.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwIPJbhkxtSdFuVsnS7czowEz3zPLJqpAatPQ_ExBDGw6UEJVoWx03g4RbAG64_aUJpDqES4X8pK2QHhiG2GcVRDNOdNve9qxkoPBHZEEgmjW3ip_T_1MfTL99VGNO0LfBmdQBcRqfJlrQ/s1600/pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwIPJbhkxtSdFuVsnS7czowEz3zPLJqpAatPQ_ExBDGw6UEJVoWx03g4RbAG64_aUJpDqES4X8pK2QHhiG2GcVRDNOdNve9qxkoPBHZEEgmjW3ip_T_1MfTL99VGNO0LfBmdQBcRqfJlrQ/s1600/pattern.jpg" height="400" width="400"></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxThZ4RsICbBUT_fdiKb09J_3ZOBG5ehyTlHJWLC8r9ii0ly4Jhjfh4aEQ5VY_UUPcUkqy0biY4XRbPHHVudrjHTc3dYTFYeMv7gSs9VFu1h499aFULDwR5mECiAF45SV26PyK-S0BMeb1/s1600/pattern+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxThZ4RsICbBUT_fdiKb09J_3ZOBG5ehyTlHJWLC8r9ii0ly4Jhjfh4aEQ5VY_UUPcUkqy0biY4XRbPHHVudrjHTc3dYTFYeMv7gSs9VFu1h499aFULDwR5mECiAF45SV26PyK-S0BMeb1/s1600/pattern+2.jpg" height="400" width="400"></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><br></span></div>
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<br></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;">During
the <b>construction</b>, I combined the two
front bodice pieces into one piece with darts. This way, I can save some
fabric, extra cutting and stitching. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;">I
also remove the zip because it’s knit and I can just slip through. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZcGDkQRwAYZpXdHhsH2awEvvVCFmCnSBKi-O6UO6OHcJkgL5b1SdXA5gPzgRbo0sMj6oenvKc5ZtueacXgNaEzOPR-vAFJAZD_1GWH5LjUe87Fi1L65FSZAfAlGD3sNWMCjaxMvj2nUPD/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZcGDkQRwAYZpXdHhsH2awEvvVCFmCnSBKi-O6UO6OHcJkgL5b1SdXA5gPzgRbo0sMj6oenvKc5ZtueacXgNaEzOPR-vAFJAZD_1GWH5LjUe87Fi1L65FSZAfAlGD3sNWMCjaxMvj2nUPD/s1600/back.jpg" height="640" width="426"></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><br></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><b>Material
list:</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;">Grey
Ponte (147cm wide): 0.5m x $11 = $5.5<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;">Yellow
Ponte: 0.3m x $11 = $3.3<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;">Lilac
Ponte: 0.7m x $11 = $7.7<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;">Tricot for lining: 0.5 m</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw51M36I-uuh8vrzWk8rcLBUcQAfplmyajTPqKMGi4qfwEoC4Zim1YBX699KPYeq-sC2Rj2uB5vEoSJjrXLamhRYy0Ky1EoMS7fGbCbYTFJ4WVJoIl4lboECpURi7wbYxAg1dVF1xbrso-/s1600/main.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw51M36I-uuh8vrzWk8rcLBUcQAfplmyajTPqKMGi4qfwEoC4Zim1YBX699KPYeq-sC2Rj2uB5vEoSJjrXLamhRYy0Ky1EoMS7fGbCbYTFJ4WVJoIl4lboECpURi7wbYxAg1dVF1xbrso-/s1600/main.jpg" height="640" width="426"></a></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 107%;"><br></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="line-height: 107%;">Overall</span></b><span style="line-height: 107%;">, I am happy with the
pattern. The Once you get your right fitting, you can turn this pattern into distinct
dress by choosing different colour combinations and materials. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><br></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;"><b>What’s
next?</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: 107%;">I just bought the <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/elisalex-dress">By Hand London Elisalex Dress Pattern</a>. Very excited. Start working on it now. <span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-74391033557584488282014-10-04T19:18:00.001+10:002015-02-14T00:12:44.194+11:00Burda #122 09/14 Godet dress with cap sleeves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I hadn't sewn a BurdaStyle pattern for a while. Although the photos on magazine have always appealed to me, I am often discouraged from starting a new project, due to all the hassles like tracing patterns from the eye-confusing pattern sheet and the unclear instructions. It's not that easy to sew compared to other commercial patterns.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCw8a5yI_6gNOgJ4QCPYqa-uhUK1HT51Oo_0hicvQ3JOmYg5jqzo5uE6nJLFULywTEHzqs6lgfnw9_PcVqIc8McJxaa7PkvyGZFHKNeWtgnKbdVoYEha14HPD4m18YhkTXlJNz-yzKtEK/s1600/main+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCw8a5yI_6gNOgJ4QCPYqa-uhUK1HT51Oo_0hicvQ3JOmYg5jqzo5uE6nJLFULywTEHzqs6lgfnw9_PcVqIc8McJxaa7PkvyGZFHKNeWtgnKbdVoYEha14HPD4m18YhkTXlJNz-yzKtEK/s1600/main+2.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
On this occasion however, I couldn't resist this unusual <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/cap-sleeve-godet-dress-092014" target="_blank">Godet Dress</a>. It has multiple curved seams from the shoulder all over the bust towards the centre. The ripple-like seams tailor the upper body accurately and the skirt lightly flares from the waist, with a single godet inserted in the lower front that drapes evenly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5mUDhwcOAdnjNDmJMPdvaj0851Bv5R9h5yX6P36QoZ7xUlDoX_KhKRri6ZUVUbcTFwUrqqH8dtwKd73vtjVmYwrrhzKuIgKNzfI78Sa4fJAHjtqw79HAkkT3mVx-HjQouL9SX3WJGk__/s1600/side-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5mUDhwcOAdnjNDmJMPdvaj0851Bv5R9h5yX6P36QoZ7xUlDoX_KhKRri6ZUVUbcTFwUrqqH8dtwKd73vtjVmYwrrhzKuIgKNzfI78Sa4fJAHjtqw79HAkkT3mVx-HjQouL9SX3WJGk__/s1600/side-view.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>Sizing and fabric</b><br />
I was further inspired by the member project on BurdaStyle. Liliv1 had problem with the sizing, so I paid extra attention with the fitting. I bought some dark brown flannel, at least that's what I thought (no label was on the bolt). However, as I sewed up the pieces, I found the fabric was not right, it's actually poly fleece and it also made me skin itchy when I put it on. I thought "OK, it can serve as a testing muslin".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3U6KgVGaAovPo03Gi8TV_kp5SCR1BNzxTeaxZIRBx66pzXXAvuHyg2b2yGhboyYRDyAStp2QyULKmexXYHu0klvEGO8RxO-WPMJ2TiJRrIOyvCBtnDdTlCOyN6nWZ5xeZX3plooA61TH/s1600/toil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3U6KgVGaAovPo03Gi8TV_kp5SCR1BNzxTeaxZIRBx66pzXXAvuHyg2b2yGhboyYRDyAStp2QyULKmexXYHu0klvEGO8RxO-WPMJ2TiJRrIOyvCBtnDdTlCOyN6nWZ5xeZX3plooA61TH/s1600/toil.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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I cut size 36 and graded to 38 from the waist. I found the bodice is a little bit tight, but the skirt around the lower abdomen was a bit loose. It required minimal adjustment thanks to my pre-cutting measurement on the pattern pieces.<br />
<br />
I found some lightweight wool flannel in my stash. I worried it may be too light and soft, so I used a crispier lining fabric. I also shortened the back skirt by a couple of centimetres.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojTLuKMY0EVYOThCy8aN17jtc6S2cZVvi0fEC78U-OvCoXr3CrJZHhKvrQzU8WcrV0myqOjkhBB5rIYbtE7J232r3ar6zdsPB46rli2a2lLpPv_koP3DkJBrCqWbjvPeJEcHsIkqhqDuK/s1600/lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhojTLuKMY0EVYOThCy8aN17jtc6S2cZVvi0fEC78U-OvCoXr3CrJZHhKvrQzU8WcrV0myqOjkhBB5rIYbtE7J232r3ar6zdsPB46rli2a2lLpPv_koP3DkJBrCqWbjvPeJEcHsIkqhqDuK/s1600/lining.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Construction tips and pointers</b><br />
There is lots of curved stitching in this dress. Luckily I have gone through curves in my last <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/vogue-1398-badgley-mischkas-three.html">Scalloped Dress</a> so this dress was nothing to me. The BurdaStyle patterns often do not have notches. I matched a lot of notches on the curved lines of the pattern myself in order to get neat and smooth curved seams. My effort paid off! The seams are accurate and symmetrical on both sides and it looks fabulous.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoz_XY8Otec3YRBA7ehQEIghdnbA57kMBE0Y1nWuC0nXdfEkO-MMMMo9cOoxLheXbZMZTyVat5zcRlkGXaHxNCNZXn1QgPH6bA775BsuZC0of024-VE1CdSiTHgI9lOtkDNMy0z4kKMVWc/s1600/notches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoz_XY8Otec3YRBA7ehQEIghdnbA57kMBE0Y1nWuC0nXdfEkO-MMMMo9cOoxLheXbZMZTyVat5zcRlkGXaHxNCNZXn1QgPH6bA775BsuZC0of024-VE1CdSiTHgI9lOtkDNMy0z4kKMVWc/s1600/notches.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding lots of notches</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUvWHOmxGq7HTiT7-h71-0EZMDvnWrNEpTH48oUWDb1Z0ZBGcoIZrnMp9Y99OHMY7JVQTd-oDNc7-nPo1PIT_mlcR3pqcf_VWp-JXqkh-pRpy4el4YmOmgbk14_glhqzaoNiHwRwvBpKm/s1600/side+-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUvWHOmxGq7HTiT7-h71-0EZMDvnWrNEpTH48oUWDb1Z0ZBGcoIZrnMp9Y99OHMY7JVQTd-oDNc7-nPo1PIT_mlcR3pqcf_VWp-JXqkh-pRpy4el4YmOmgbk14_glhqzaoNiHwRwvBpKm/s1600/side+-2.JPG" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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I topstitched those curved seams using a double needle with matching threads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjlR2ErfGrfkiwo0YcldW7iUhxwEH-ihLqaaRAQAFkIegMh6MYNtacGikXQ4A6IYpFg-UPt_Hz3dL-LM8RvHj9fhRVF7bxo_0V60eEViMnfArMRcVrpWR011OharpkxQ8sVZ0RgREbVso/s1600/double+needle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjlR2ErfGrfkiwo0YcldW7iUhxwEH-ihLqaaRAQAFkIegMh6MYNtacGikXQ4A6IYpFg-UPt_Hz3dL-LM8RvHj9fhRVF7bxo_0V60eEViMnfArMRcVrpWR011OharpkxQ8sVZ0RgREbVso/s1600/double+needle.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6egovb9QvzD_TzzIYLE0nb2wmXioa4UyU-SQJY2UIF3IX30OZFm00eE894sYX05HXQc5Ca-Z7vrrr-z4wHHUG142gSTLcHMjz6RK2CwTiZBTDfJM36AOFB7cqeTuECJ_omWJ_Ng4vPdC/s1600/construction-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6egovb9QvzD_TzzIYLE0nb2wmXioa4UyU-SQJY2UIF3IX30OZFm00eE894sYX05HXQc5Ca-Z7vrrr-z4wHHUG142gSTLcHMjz6RK2CwTiZBTDfJM36AOFB7cqeTuECJ_omWJ_Ng4vPdC/s1600/construction-1.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of curved stitching again... I used lots of pins.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ErmhvKwrBnhl8sncLCKYt_Saddi-agiBYCKLagtmZI9k9qC7WW9nKjUK-Wp2U9f1TNcbO8rkmPhgVoTPbqwlx33AB5O4MOVtbIFnoLuKWVViZ9wMXPkfxi9RXvAljHfRnLo6NFIns0_X/s1600/side-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ErmhvKwrBnhl8sncLCKYt_Saddi-agiBYCKLagtmZI9k9qC7WW9nKjUK-Wp2U9f1TNcbO8rkmPhgVoTPbqwlx33AB5O4MOVtbIFnoLuKWVViZ9wMXPkfxi9RXvAljHfRnLo6NFIns0_X/s1600/side-3.JPG" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUej6iPvB0yMcQ2oOg5MXufboP3Lkfuq-XMGh_JKYoYusiWsGS3Hhs1ez5g335gCR2dFh3JbeYbsOjteSH24Sf6la1xjFpBWZZQm48iuz6UWgD91FgZsKabXwMXkM97fLz10I91lrfYqPa/s1600/side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUej6iPvB0yMcQ2oOg5MXufboP3Lkfuq-XMGh_JKYoYusiWsGS3Hhs1ez5g335gCR2dFh3JbeYbsOjteSH24Sf6la1xjFpBWZZQm48iuz6UWgD91FgZsKabXwMXkM97fLz10I91lrfYqPa/s1600/side.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Overall,</b> this is a unique design that stands out from the rest of the Burda patterns and it is very flattering to my body shape. You can also be creative with the curved seams with different decorative stitches, threads and colours. I will definitely make it again.<br />
<br />
<b>Material list</b><br />
Wool flannel 150cm wide: 1.40m x $10 = $15<br />
Poly lining 122cm wide: 1.00m x $2 = $2<br />
Invisible zip 22 inch<br />
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<b>Misc</b><br />
Spring/Summer is here in Melbourne. I caught up with my friend on a lovely Saturday Morning and enjoyed the yummy Ramen and free entertainment in the city.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrYvIdVnSonK1M8elIVCQTpI2p9Hx6KHDOk_PnBJRL8tvksv_hBgUBJWo9aQU-T63oGKHAin5LwL5agtTTWig2onHHVL3swUdCJq5s3tho5fjGHXUfhyHQW028YfaFX_kQlJQ6Bp50KiD/s1600/Tea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrYvIdVnSonK1M8elIVCQTpI2p9Hx6KHDOk_PnBJRL8tvksv_hBgUBJWo9aQU-T63oGKHAin5LwL5agtTTWig2onHHVL3swUdCJq5s3tho5fjGHXUfhyHQW028YfaFX_kQlJQ6Bp50KiD/s1600/Tea.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am a big fan of Yorkshire Tea</td></tr>
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-38373522894780991762014-09-18T22:04:00.000+10:002014-10-04T19:24:57.485+10:00Vogue 1398 Badgley Mischka's Three Tiered Scalloped DressI love sewing Vogue Patterns. The design and construction never let me down. Vogue 2014 summer pattern was quite a delightful release (back in March). Lots of pretty and practical patterns there and this pattern caught my eye straight away. Lots of design elements here:<br />
• pleated neckline,<br />
• princess seam bodice,<br />
• tiered skirt, and<br />
• most specially scalloped hem!<br />
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However, there are not many reviews or makes on this pattern so far. Is it because it's more for special occasions or is it too difficult?<br />
<br />
As it turned out, the pattern really let me down in some aspects. The poor drafting of the armhole and bodice almost killed my hard work.<br />
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<b>The fabric</b><br />
From <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Vogue%201353" target="_blank">my last experience of vogue 1353</a>, I learned pleats are more visible with solid colour fabric. I want it whit or ivory at the start. I bought some ivory georgette and yellow lining. However, I found the ivory georgette is a bit too see-through and may be too soft for the scalloped hem. I decided to go back to the heavy poly georgette from <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/vogue-9004-asymmetric-top-v10.html" target="_blank">my last project Vogue 9004</a>. It's not as drapey as I want it but that's fine. Scalloped hem needs firmly woven fabric.<br />
<br />
The problem with poly fabric is that it's very hard to press. It's very springy. It's one of the reasons this project took me a long time to finish.<br />
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<b>Pattern error and poor drafting</b><br />
I heard about vogue patterns often have errors, but I had never found one. This time, I found one error on the pattern. It's the notch in pattern piece 1, as shown below in red circle.<br />
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Another problem is the placement of the apex. The pattern places the apex on the side front bodice piece, far away from the centre front. In my muslin, my apex is on the centre front piece. Quite a bit of distance between the "designed" apex and my real apex.<br />
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Not only the above, the major let down is the size of the armhole. It's ridiculously <i>huge</i>. I failed to detect it in my muslin. After I finished everything and tried it on, I found the armholes almost exposed up my bra! *sigh* It needs to be raised by one inch.<br />
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<b>It took me long time...</b><br />
If you want to make this dress, this is no quick project. Plan heaps of time and patience. It is by far the most tedious project I've done other than my wedding dress. Let me do the numbers:<br />
• 13 pattern pieces<br />
• 8 princess seams (shell and lining, front and back)<br />
• skirt panels (shell and lining, front and back)<br />
• Three tiers of scalloped hem, 12x3=36 scalloped curves<br />
<br />
So many CURVED stitching and pressing! I almost called it quits, but I stared at the envelope photos to keep myself going. At the end, I gained lots of experience on stitching curved edges and now I can sew a perfect princess seam and if I need to sew it again, I have nothing to fear. No pain no gain!<br />
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<b>Sewing scalloped hem</b><br />
Here is a list of websites that have very useful tips on sewing scalloped hem.<br />
<a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4984/the-scalloped-hem" target="_blank">Thread Magazine</a><br />
<a href="http://blog.megannielsen.com/2013/03/tutorial-scalloped-hem/" target="_blank">Megan Neilson</a><br />
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I strongly suggest basting in a seam allowance for the scallops first, probably about 1 cm from the edge. Match the turning point on the lining and main fabric.<br />
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I pressed the seam allowance open on the curve of the Tailor's Board, then pressed it flat. It's the fastest and best way.<br />
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<b>Overall</b>, the dress is pretty and the instruction is very well written, but the armhole is way too big.<br />
This dress took me three whole days, from fitting to finish. It almost wore me out. It's the second most painful work after my wedding dress, but at the end, like my wedding address, I am proud and happy with the result.<br />
<br />
I really don't know if I'll sew it again. It's so hard. I need to adjust the armhole and the princess seam to fit my upper body better.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Material list:</b><br />
Heavy Georgette (112 cm width): 1.5m x $4 = $6<br />
Lining (122 cm width): 1.8 m x $1.5 = $2.7<br />
Dress zip 22 inch = $1.4<br />
Time used: approx. 25 hours<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>What's next?</b><br />
Still working on the <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/cap-sleeve-godet-dress-092014" target="_blank">Godet Dress </a>from Burda Style magazine atm.cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-82129151456392709742014-09-06T22:48:00.006+10:002014-09-06T23:03:35.432+10:00Vogue 9004: Asymmetric top v1.0I was attracted by the photo of the model wearing this top when Vogue 9004 first came out. I had a number of reasons to love it at first sight:<br />
<ul>
<li>Its asymmetric design is distinctive</li>
<li>I thought that it would be an easy project. Only a few panels and a few seams.</li>
<li>Its loose fitting means I don't need to make a muslin to get a fit.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBLgDft92Gb2x6jF6803kPfHBop9sGi-PPnjJo-fkSY6t_Ay-7_jnZqzt22tWxfOrf5mqDu-Gb2SkxDybtpwL72o0ESY_xYIy_nywTyhApWydY9eGu8Cd0dhgUyvWXf9q8T4-vxaSON_UW/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBLgDft92Gb2x6jF6803kPfHBop9sGi-PPnjJo-fkSY6t_Ay-7_jnZqzt22tWxfOrf5mqDu-Gb2SkxDybtpwL72o0ESY_xYIy_nywTyhApWydY9eGu8Cd0dhgUyvWXf9q8T4-vxaSON_UW/s1600/16.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>The size</b><br />
I cut size 10 and grade to 12 from waist. It's my normal cut because of my pear shape body type. But I find it's a too small. The top is supposed to be loosely fitted. It seems a bit too tight. I think I will make size 12 next time.<br />
<br />
Like what's said in PR, the front hem is bit too high.. My belly is exposed when my jeans are not high waisted. I am think View A may be better on this. Or I can lengthen the front next time?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhPltyVYFHMr9xqYK96JLhGBQHKro2-_go-odov75IeJlTtoZ4r1RZgwJVw33ZTce1g8hidEt3Mh2_pNgPkiPwxM57fp_KvpbS23k1nFdd91lisB4_Wfa5tfrHKRHEcJ6nQuqvwSj_s4d-/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhPltyVYFHMr9xqYK96JLhGBQHKro2-_go-odov75IeJlTtoZ4r1RZgwJVw33ZTce1g8hidEt3Mh2_pNgPkiPwxM57fp_KvpbS23k1nFdd91lisB4_Wfa5tfrHKRHEcJ6nQuqvwSj_s4d-/s1600/10.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The corner at the front is too high.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Thanks to <a href="http://sewtawdry.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/vogue-9004-armani-tops.html" target="_blank">Sewtawdry's </a>review, I removed the zip to make it easier and neater.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHPHRwCeU0v7OLiiusOANGhBW_WnCh0oWhovXrGIrztjthCZ0E4M3f-VQYTZD3CfZE6644vBT2sn9xPw_XdTBxDEGpPh3d2ypCNGCaQuNV4M9kmhhJbCuVFS0JEMtRLXdCi57NKyE-DMa/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHPHRwCeU0v7OLiiusOANGhBW_WnCh0oWhovXrGIrztjthCZ0E4M3f-VQYTZD3CfZE6644vBT2sn9xPw_XdTBxDEGpPh3d2ypCNGCaQuNV4M9kmhhJbCuVFS0JEMtRLXdCi57NKyE-DMa/s1600/5.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back piece of the pattern is well drafted.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>The fabric</b><br />
The fabric label was missing on the bolt but I think the fabric is heavy georgette. I never sewed it before because I thought it would be difficult to handle. However, after making <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/search/label/My%20wedding%20dress" target="_blank">my wedding gown</a>, I learnt a lot from my dressmaker neighbour Verona and got more confidence. <i>"Maybe I can give it a go!" </i><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHz-ABScaX7jWKY9t3OuOTnItbhamOezz6tHmfVrKxAWQdJ8T5FQVWIUiGoiFcMLFBZ66AdEh5ktsmlq8N_3E6JA9eoxTJUMZ10VIOODrjcgOKtuvB3QAHZRjs4aTXbyQCVawjiXRzESdq/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHz-ABScaX7jWKY9t3OuOTnItbhamOezz6tHmfVrKxAWQdJ8T5FQVWIUiGoiFcMLFBZ66AdEh5ktsmlq8N_3E6JA9eoxTJUMZ10VIOODrjcgOKtuvB3QAHZRjs4aTXbyQCVawjiXRzESdq/s1600/2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The two colour are white and light blue. the difference is very subtle on the photo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I took extra care on handling the fabric. Instead of cutting the fabric with the pattern on top, I traced the patter on the fabric with tracing wheel and carbon paper, then cut the single-layer fabric along the tracing. Of course, notches and darts are transferred too.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEdomJg2fd9RZpZwH65lG_lhg_y40kEtoYo3nKOwTIbfV386N-kzhUkjoZRW01vqHWOiZAtvQcOVb6-PW3zHmjpDJujQOdwjm10zBloe3XTIjhRr2KcOUS4Qf6gWFxnYwijDeAnBvvFHs/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyEdomJg2fd9RZpZwH65lG_lhg_y40kEtoYo3nKOwTIbfV386N-kzhUkjoZRW01vqHWOiZAtvQcOVb6-PW3zHmjpDJujQOdwjm10zBloe3XTIjhRr2KcOUS4Qf6gWFxnYwijDeAnBvvFHs/s1600/8.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tracing the pattern on single layer</td></tr>
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<b>Neckline</b><br />
<div>
One of the elements that make this special is the asymmetric neckline. If you take a closer look the left front side has a corner that sticks up which makes this top harder to sew.<br />
<br />
I failed to sew the corner properly the first time. It's a bit complicated for me and the instructions don't help much. The instructions only tell you where the stitching line is, but don't say how to clip the seam allowance or turn it inside out to make a nice mitre corner. It took me a while to figure it out. The result was less than perfect.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJIFmDCY_-wktxFNkMsTNJb8VwkDRrSpKSvbq_KIJC-KCE6kRUj0wrohWeCMNf33f1jJ-AgdIvmpuEf1JtxlHwHVSzKCtRye5zmLrgSqHZZmwqffSvHmuPZLJ8HUw6ch0tiTQaH9uQ5VgD/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJIFmDCY_-wktxFNkMsTNJb8VwkDRrSpKSvbq_KIJC-KCE6kRUj0wrohWeCMNf33f1jJ-AgdIvmpuEf1JtxlHwHVSzKCtRye5zmLrgSqHZZmwqffSvHmuPZLJ8HUw6ch0tiTQaH9uQ5VgD/s1600/3.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intersection at the front neckline. a bit messy.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVAoYu-WkEEAFEiINMH3gocaKmQBwYmMvPq8cF8yEKl5gXnYU9wf4bl0uZMlyUHufcT_h23Tt6FBzccOdPPdlnbXyXeE5GHEEMujiVq2jhvaOJY0_AsSd3hOGvhrVENDMLe2cLt4Z5Vmy/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVAoYu-WkEEAFEiINMH3gocaKmQBwYmMvPq8cF8yEKl5gXnYU9wf4bl0uZMlyUHufcT_h23Tt6FBzccOdPPdlnbXyXeE5GHEEMujiVq2jhvaOJY0_AsSd3hOGvhrVENDMLe2cLt4Z5Vmy/s1600/4.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Understitching</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Hemming a concave curve</b><br />
I only realised the front hem line has a bit of a concave curve when I was pressing the fold. Grrr...It gave me a big headache as I had already serged the edge and could not manipulate it any more, plus I never hemmed a concave curve. No surprise I had a lot of puckers in the front hem line.<br />
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I would like to hear from you if you have better suggestion.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5vc6flkUfneH57DyW-bFhfxim8359cYj8aC_TXmSF9ideFTprXSa_K6ceqwmxjSL8F0O4R4fPete614YudyHEVy2RdiH-lxK6BL_VlIUMG36O3LCG-eFbhGMfpyB9uwYR0L8kWwjpxT9/s1600/15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5vc6flkUfneH57DyW-bFhfxim8359cYj8aC_TXmSF9ideFTprXSa_K6ceqwmxjSL8F0O4R4fPete614YudyHEVy2RdiH-lxK6BL_VlIUMG36O3LCG-eFbhGMfpyB9uwYR0L8kWwjpxT9/s1600/15.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>In conclusion</b>, I blame myself for not planning and studying the pattern enough before sewing. Everything went well until the construction of the neckline and hemming. I hope to sew it again with lighter (normal) <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>georgette and hopefully I will do better next time.<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>What's next</b><br />
<br />
I am using the same fabric for Vogue 1398 theTtiered scalloped dress. It's half done so far. Should be up soon!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_q0IimRLOwRgZ_yECaUM5dFLgFP6iinJbS-yWD6z_8c447qBLMlZoJCEVoFWMwt2cSv_tJVfcUELslpw6upjcvkmNRTlpmwM6rOx0EihY_jQGv14Bs9akPf5P3sPaOW6jNDGRAXV4ePRN/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_q0IimRLOwRgZ_yECaUM5dFLgFP6iinJbS-yWD6z_8c447qBLMlZoJCEVoFWMwt2cSv_tJVfcUELslpw6upjcvkmNRTlpmwM6rOx0EihY_jQGv14Bs9akPf5P3sPaOW6jNDGRAXV4ePRN/s1600/12.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<b>Misc</b><br />
We are back on TRACK! Yes... I started running again. After a couple of kilometres, I was so exhausted that I only wanted to hug the pillar of my house. My motivation behind it is to fit the pattern size. Adjusting the pattern to my out-of-shape body is equally as challenging as fitting my body shape to the pattern.. :P<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQIYxDHGmuhrEr5AR5XW5qEPD1G0JX1oVpZs9T5iTZq8m8CtCzBkpkB8RrQN_s5hDnBxvF-Y_96tykvu2WUJwi0LVzFLuu-Bp_xg5QuP9UwNObw7pZ4jbyzt7Wped_ylgc2QXFIyc63NK/s1600/IMG_20140906_172840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizQIYxDHGmuhrEr5AR5XW5qEPD1G0JX1oVpZs9T5iTZq8m8CtCzBkpkB8RrQN_s5hDnBxvF-Y_96tykvu2WUJwi0LVzFLuu-Bp_xg5QuP9UwNObw7pZ4jbyzt7Wped_ylgc2QXFIyc63NK/s1600/IMG_20140906_172840.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-57673119506352357292014-08-31T01:33:00.001+10:002014-08-31T02:22:33.874+10:00Butterick 5917: The Ruffle Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
The overall silhouette is a typical fitted dress with an
empire waist line, but what makes the pattern stand out is the ruffle detail
around the neck. I must say it’s a very balanced design with the ruffle. If you
use a vintage colour and fabric, the dress can turn out to be a good vintage
piece.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8F2gd94BX_C9PFv3plUE-WZRZyAm45DSZRxAOeiR4zVj26dpxu9wgODaHpzNUlhb73QOfQi9M41rq3S1fduc4zEb8jXKA-PajT1UgAfT1hYoh5UMyx-dxyYgMSZhP60Cq9-XpNgZR1etJ/s1600/cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8F2gd94BX_C9PFv3plUE-WZRZyAm45DSZRxAOeiR4zVj26dpxu9wgODaHpzNUlhb73QOfQi9M41rq3S1fduc4zEb8jXKA-PajT1UgAfT1hYoh5UMyx-dxyYgMSZhP60Cq9-XpNgZR1etJ/s1600/cover.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
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<b>The fabric</b><br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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The fabric is yarn dyed cotton poly blend in plaid. Extra patience was required in cutting the
plaid for a good match at the seams. But it also saved me time in finding the grain
line. The colour is light yellow with darker shade running vertically. I was
surprised it turned out to have a vintage feel after I finished it. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisY60QimToanASOpqySLsvOYEVzcl4A-DI4e0Wh8lwNRjC4kpD3Ex3gONBK870xWM6HmVrbnS9wkmD4kDIVaSeGGFPByXfr9tICUwXYZr3_BUiXAjaXX8Ym_C1MhPUQVvMgo8K5BiGVXC2/s1600/Fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisY60QimToanASOpqySLsvOYEVzcl4A-DI4e0Wh8lwNRjC4kpD3Ex3gONBK870xWM6HmVrbnS9wkmD4kDIVaSeGGFPByXfr9tICUwXYZr3_BUiXAjaXX8Ym_C1MhPUQVvMgo8K5BiGVXC2/s1600/Fabric.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>The size</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Some reviews on PR already pointed out the sizing is bigger
than normal. Based on the envelope measurement, I should cut size 12 then grade
to size 14 at the hip, but that size seems very big on the pattern pieces. The
reviews are right. After studying (tape measuring) the pattern pieces, I
decided to cut size 10 above the waist and 12 below. My suggestion is – choose
the size wisely based on the finished garment measurement and likely on this
pattern you need a smaller size than the one suggested on the envelope. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I didn't preshrink the fabric. When I tried the dress as I was sewing, I was thinking it's too big. This is after the wash. It must shrink a lot as I can feel the dress is slightly tighter. Surprisingly it fits better. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVyRJv0YbK-CfNyFcPtJyT91-bG26ct41X0oS4QsO52kKBsmZATqtWw3UFY0goL33-FIqvzk_Suc_GblajNrZm2RmxWiEIUlGRjTlpS50evzETXq7pQbatSgWoiBYYR7uzKM61Oredpwq/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVyRJv0YbK-CfNyFcPtJyT91-bG26ct41X0oS4QsO52kKBsmZATqtWw3UFY0goL33-FIqvzk_Suc_GblajNrZm2RmxWiEIUlGRjTlpS50evzETXq7pQbatSgWoiBYYR7uzKM61Oredpwq/s1600/back.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I admit the skirt slit had not been well sewn... </td></tr>
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<b>The construction</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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I made view A, with short sleeves. I always wanted it fully
lined. The instruction only lines the bodice. I had been wondering how to
attach the lining to hide all the seam allowance inside. Unfortunately, I don’t
have a good solution. I decided to just follow the instructions and attach the
skirt lining with slip stitch at the waist joint. It is not ideal but it’s fast
and easy. The seams are not that bulking and I can overlock them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUnXRgIoRiYF1LV3bWX9KIu0gkMnKTF3xADE8gMEx_ppKX0TYpiijANHw65le2-4wC4cCFWTby3RrF8Mh9TYdk0uRAz2u_7AKYldAZYI0GhhPojvy5-LsmAqpc3xb24VWRr-_xStvsHfZN/s1600/slipstitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUnXRgIoRiYF1LV3bWX9KIu0gkMnKTF3xADE8gMEx_ppKX0TYpiijANHw65le2-4wC4cCFWTby3RrF8Mh9TYdk0uRAz2u_7AKYldAZYI0GhhPojvy5-LsmAqpc3xb24VWRr-_xStvsHfZN/s1600/slipstitch.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slip stitch waist seam...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQU0TiqsIsk3K2z_LbrFUhEcc8SXjlDgyZezWJ9SyzclIUqhOP2SiABSx9KIEr34qFlX1Pz563Ga2LQR2qkoZkR8fvzcxkRfCRy7BY5mT67vDaAhmd59hdDcktRoU0W0zi0eD0nk-UZ5q/s1600/lnside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBQU0TiqsIsk3K2z_LbrFUhEcc8SXjlDgyZezWJ9SyzclIUqhOP2SiABSx9KIEr34qFlX1Pz563Ga2LQR2qkoZkR8fvzcxkRfCRy7BY5mT67vDaAhmd59hdDcktRoU0W0zi0eD0nk-UZ5q/s1600/lnside.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
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For the sleeve, instead of self fabric as per the instruction, I used the lining fabric for the sleeve lining to reduce the bulk.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jsdgvtgm7CoUN1bXybLMdTJRxWoMCWRwRxLD0wgs_yv9J8CANEf4Nm2Lf2V0h0QdHZwlWXX9si2Aq5IoiN2Vx7COyGHsBP1AzaRhxld5K0r6ulZxmYS96hKL9si6gxVeqCCalWGmIndR/s1600/sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jsdgvtgm7CoUN1bXybLMdTJRxWoMCWRwRxLD0wgs_yv9J8CANEf4Nm2Lf2V0h0QdHZwlWXX9si2Aq5IoiN2Vx7COyGHsBP1AzaRhxld5K0r6ulZxmYS96hKL9si6gxVeqCCalWGmIndR/s1600/sleeve.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
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I took some photos on constructing the bodice. I find the
instruction (Steps 15~22) may be a bit confusing so I hope it helps here.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirYjz1loLCSt_m_ppb1AVUYvqLHKDSAMJoupfQ49q5POuMKE0KWLljAGV1whOSYM1q3bo9uyLFPXi0gxWOxDUu4IVOMImMHYeqWxL4R1F1Lg31oqSUG_vaY0K29gl7CXY8lYdPzPrck1GR/s1600/instructions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirYjz1loLCSt_m_ppb1AVUYvqLHKDSAMJoupfQ49q5POuMKE0KWLljAGV1whOSYM1q3bo9uyLFPXi0gxWOxDUu4IVOMImMHYeqWxL4R1F1Lg31oqSUG_vaY0K29gl7CXY8lYdPzPrck1GR/s1600/instructions.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing the bodice</td></tr>
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<b>In conclusion</b>, the style lines and the ruffle detail are
well designed. However, the inner structure is horrible – based on the
instructions, the skirt is not lined and the fashion fabric is used for the
sleeve lining (facing). My problem is:</div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">If I use a medium (to heavy) weight fabric, the neckline
and the sleeve seams will be super bulky.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">If I use light weight fabric, the skirt won’t
hold its shape.</span></li>
</ul>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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With a bit of modification, the pattern can produce a sophisticated
dress. I’m happy to sew it again, with a solid colour fabric like some shade of
pink-red. I think that would have a vintage feel too. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUT4glL_gR55N1mQOliWocMI73k-MvlNhhbDOsx6UvUGX6tJK2JjVLyNFFN1PdrnL-c8Hzk7W7kRR6JYjwiF1yTLpFVbFe_THopi9xcVSIHLY7uAHhbRhAM8GkUN7xpX66PlrmoQwqm1bz/s1600/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUT4glL_gR55N1mQOliWocMI73k-MvlNhhbDOsx6UvUGX6tJK2JjVLyNFFN1PdrnL-c8Hzk7W7kRR6JYjwiF1yTLpFVbFe_THopi9xcVSIHLY7uAHhbRhAM8GkUN7xpX66PlrmoQwqm1bz/s1600/front.jpg" height="640" width="422" /></a></div>
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<b>What's next!</b></div>
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I am in the middle of multiple projects of Vogue Patterns and Burda Style Patterns at the moment. Can't wait the get them done and post them here. Follow me on updates! Feel free to leave any comments. </div>
cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-44481081826864592212014-07-12T23:08:00.003+10:002014-08-31T02:06:15.114+10:00Making of my wedding gown - Part 2<br />
I apologise for the belated update on my wedding dress. It's been a long time since <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/making-of-my-wedding-gown-pt1.html">my last post</a> in late February when I was doing a muslin fitting. The end result is I made the wedding dress for myself and we had a wonderful wedding. In fact I haven't been sewing much since I finished the wedding dress in March. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6YpqLyny8DJVlmtxEHt8mgiMF6doswjZvfpAFiHVBVsQVpFTlPOsQoCI23n2trbX2pYv68Qj2TArUcqKre9lWdaXMHqZPoQC8Q0HGzBNN1_7O5zRb9HnbZ93wuu6OQCDme5A9c_aUCSmT/s1600/wedding-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6YpqLyny8DJVlmtxEHt8mgiMF6doswjZvfpAFiHVBVsQVpFTlPOsQoCI23n2trbX2pYv68Qj2TArUcqKre9lWdaXMHqZPoQC8Q0HGzBNN1_7O5zRb9HnbZ93wuu6OQCDme5A9c_aUCSmT/s1600/wedding-2.jpg" height="435" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My father was walking me down the aisle.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs2uw9XH6Aa9qDud_pLsHbPnJXJYJhvBwo1v8HiiWKDuIZARnx_oUyzH6Egs_7oQ6NxpdbCR2bpulPIXso271FXwR0dBryoW9kV7uyE-OOVr4-fD485VruArJCtjFPs8X7hA1o9Ryv7Gmk/s1600/dress-handing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs2uw9XH6Aa9qDud_pLsHbPnJXJYJhvBwo1v8HiiWKDuIZARnx_oUyzH6Egs_7oQ6NxpdbCR2bpulPIXso271FXwR0dBryoW9kV7uyE-OOVr4-fD485VruArJCtjFPs8X7hA1o9Ryv7Gmk/s1600/dress-handing.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></div>
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I took lots of photos during the process. I let will them speak for themselves. For those who are thinking about making your own wedding gown, don't underestimate it. There's lots of work and time involved. Luckily I have professional dressmaker neighbour who helped me a lot on some crucial steps.<br />
<br />
<b>Research and planning</b><br />
<br />
This is the most important stage and actually not as straightforward as you think it might be. I changed my mind many times on which gown I wanted it to be like! With straps or strapless? With sleeves or sleeveless? Ball gown or bias cut? Lace or no lace? what does the neckline look like? What fabric?<br />
<br />
I looked at some bridal magazines and on the Internet for months. I also visited a couple of bridal shops. Unfortunately when you make your own gown, it's never going to be what you want most because there's a limitation on your ability to make. I knew there were certain things I would totally avoid:<br />
<ol>
<li>Fabric like Chiffon and Georgette. It's definitely beyond my ability to handle those difficult fabrics. I knew if I couldn't cut or sew it well, the dress was never going to be wearable.</li>
<li>Sleeves. I think it's extra work and difficulty to do sleeves on a wedding gown. A bit of skin makes the gown more elegant. </li>
</ol>
I drew inspiration from a photo in a bridal magazine. I decided to do a strapless, a-line, skinny gown. There will be beaded lace on the upper body just like the photo and bias skirt with a short train. I put it in the drawing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp39RAJrRbSZbCtzTKnP9Leeefz8OBuyAmbjp-9zvJvyWcPZ68bgMOI4QuXInUbLqklLerAwCdK-TtGMr6duIRMITnOlVcOkhlQWXG4UiSM-xGRgoiznXDnmpWEjNO6rSOQsPSV61ZWvcT/s1600/research.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp39RAJrRbSZbCtzTKnP9Leeefz8OBuyAmbjp-9zvJvyWcPZ68bgMOI4QuXInUbLqklLerAwCdK-TtGMr6duIRMITnOlVcOkhlQWXG4UiSM-xGRgoiznXDnmpWEjNO6rSOQsPSV61ZWvcT/s1600/research.jpg" height="448" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspired by this photo.</td></tr>
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<b>The corselette</b><br />
<br />
Strapless gowns needs a sturdy corselette. It basically pulls the whole gown up, and boy I tell you, it's heavy when finished. <br />
<br />
I did multiple fittings with calico. I used <a href="http://kwiksew.mccall.com/k3060-products-19784.php?page_id=3017&search_control=display&list=search">kwik Sew pattern 3060</a> as a starter. I extended the pattern to the hipline. You can see my first version in <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/making-of-my-wedding-gown-pt1.html">my last post</a> .<br />
<br />
Verona helped me with the fitting. Certain areas needs a little negative ease like the bust and the waist. She gave the tummy a bit of ease because I would need it when sitting down. Here is the first fitting by her:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXvs4NMw5edgc_iHi5rloRxh5wra3HR5bx-9ObRmOKxqfK5kIo3vv0jGx9u0GsbXipFR0lxZX7mmIq0pMP9sjQHp9PtCcLAVVgnqQqfwxbB6iUyLPpTpWltepVX-kv_hF_GNEDinuIFfzi/s1600/fitting-0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXvs4NMw5edgc_iHi5rloRxh5wra3HR5bx-9ObRmOKxqfK5kIo3vv0jGx9u0GsbXipFR0lxZX7mmIq0pMP9sjQHp9PtCcLAVVgnqQqfwxbB6iUyLPpTpWltepVX-kv_hF_GNEDinuIFfzi/s1600/fitting-0.jpg" height="640" width="456" /></a></div>
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I used good quality shape-well and interfacing. Those are the two layers in-between. A lining is added inside and fashion fabric outside.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij28uJGoP-2n9MRV3QoabMDiCUPq6Hy98V5j_UKotVuNaXQsXOvTVJp-JAvR7vOMj7XrO2YDlo5vTtawdscsb_zinsGdUJ25AwulEoYcV-i205Rt4n0dI95pHy3g44dtQGJCnAImHtPlvd/s1600/corset-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij28uJGoP-2n9MRV3QoabMDiCUPq6Hy98V5j_UKotVuNaXQsXOvTVJp-JAvR7vOMj7XrO2YDlo5vTtawdscsb_zinsGdUJ25AwulEoYcV-i205Rt4n0dI95pHy3g44dtQGJCnAImHtPlvd/s1600/corset-3.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the corset (without the lining)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1EzVV_8gFBtpBijVA8XtoJzWcdC-AI5JXafFxYSPQFQ0lJI7Yhoy7KOh5fz4H-B1MlgK9aojH49B9ch3EvLOnfzpVyaCFJ5PADQpZbMmDw1UVqBjI0QQ_e67We94jc7HjIkyPbSuuBIfW/s1600/corset-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1EzVV_8gFBtpBijVA8XtoJzWcdC-AI5JXafFxYSPQFQ0lJI7Yhoy7KOh5fz4H-B1MlgK9aojH49B9ch3EvLOnfzpVyaCFJ5PADQpZbMmDw1UVqBjI0QQ_e67We94jc7HjIkyPbSuuBIfW/s1600/corset-2.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I added <i>double</i> bra cups for bigger looking bust :P</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE9KliNxMxw9-Q_9-R1kzrcsB9DEj-qJIn7ii4myqPyiGSrqLLXl2LX_cF6RQyyZRlFhohElgfot44RoJuOiG5UHQ9Zm1Laz-m9BiVGMoaoYSlrYBGgQsbYj1KPJs49Zwd2y99d26CF74P/s1600/corset-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE9KliNxMxw9-Q_9-R1kzrcsB9DEj-qJIn7ii4myqPyiGSrqLLXl2LX_cF6RQyyZRlFhohElgfot44RoJuOiG5UHQ9Zm1Laz-m9BiVGMoaoYSlrYBGgQsbYj1KPJs49Zwd2y99d26CF74P/s1600/corset-1.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up on the boning</td></tr>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>The top</b><br />
<br />
Placing the beaded lace needed some expertise. I asked Verona for help. She had to take a photo of the lace and asked her friend who is very experienced with lace for advice. She pinned the lace for me. What followed was the most <i>daunting </i>task of this project - hand sewing the lace to the main fabric. It took me days and maybe because I got bored, I took lots of photos during this process. The heavily beaded lace is from <a href="http://www.clegs.com.au/" target="_blank">Clegs</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0kDQHTLOyzrtggvzHAw89_W_yhJOND8zSCeYNlKluySnfCosuPnANR-RCKyfHLTRGuKOFdZdYLNH_SDH2l2LUCHbp4qcfKJE-OIN7H2VzunVcBtHTdqmoimuLKW44sVv0ZSQIBmPS-WiX/s1600/corset-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0kDQHTLOyzrtggvzHAw89_W_yhJOND8zSCeYNlKluySnfCosuPnANR-RCKyfHLTRGuKOFdZdYLNH_SDH2l2LUCHbp4qcfKJE-OIN7H2VzunVcBtHTdqmoimuLKW44sVv0ZSQIBmPS-WiX/s1600/corset-4.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOLZglIQdS07HSm8tTXYS1mmgbJH8705SHdwWw_CtAh4SKhu3VtVkceDo3a7RldE-ISMPNk9R3mWnuDSaQsQJGnVa4ELcmnE1EHtSs2CJy9Rzu3cb8XoRZAulUL6vvmXWUC5xtys3fjQEZ/s1600/corset-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOLZglIQdS07HSm8tTXYS1mmgbJH8705SHdwWw_CtAh4SKhu3VtVkceDo3a7RldE-ISMPNk9R3mWnuDSaQsQJGnVa4ELcmnE1EHtSs2CJy9Rzu3cb8XoRZAulUL6vvmXWUC5xtys3fjQEZ/s1600/corset-5.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1F6MQ59DxLVoSFFzzMyCuATksPF7R-ltv9KTyDX0I9enMZmn_pKkW8238RX-iWyvsC-Qps4oYRFt-quPsufelffizfU730xNaQBd19Zr-iIHUnQmhRz3igIT1UtzTnzZG9dUVFpqvgVgo/s1600/corset-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1F6MQ59DxLVoSFFzzMyCuATksPF7R-ltv9KTyDX0I9enMZmn_pKkW8238RX-iWyvsC-Qps4oYRFt-quPsufelffizfU730xNaQBd19Zr-iIHUnQmhRz3igIT1UtzTnzZG9dUVFpqvgVgo/s1600/corset-6.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand-stitch the lace to the fashion fabric</td></tr>
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<b>Bias Skirt</b><br />
<br />
I asked Verona to help me with the bias cut because I am not good with it at all. She has a very big table. I think you need a big surface for bias cut. It's easy to stitch up the skirt and attach it to the corselette.<br />
<br />
<b>Closure</b><br />
<br />
I opted to use lap zips for closure. Don't assume that it's simple. There were a few layers to be attached. I remember I had to hand sew the zip because of the beaded lace.<br />
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<b>The wedding</b><br />
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The wedding was beautiful. It was a bit wet so we could not take too many photos outside.<br />
<br />
At the end of the day, it was a big relief. I took on too many handmade stuff like baking Macarons, decorating the ceremony etc. I just learnt one important lesson, that is, I can't do everything myself. I need to delegate tasks to friends and family.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj868xIHZo9bZZ7wni5n8fbcBC9FIsyGt8h4uYbkTZTdSVBfvHiuA1w0bEcwvDQzYVWjzmOXK3cQ4zz2ZFK7DHYJ_GLNeSxY-biDz7Tb7ue5xaFrusqrca1xS_2icaYfGFddYZAeUAye3tp/s1600/wedding1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj868xIHZo9bZZ7wni5n8fbcBC9FIsyGt8h4uYbkTZTdSVBfvHiuA1w0bEcwvDQzYVWjzmOXK3cQ4zz2ZFK7DHYJ_GLNeSxY-biDz7Tb7ue5xaFrusqrca1xS_2icaYfGFddYZAeUAye3tp/s1600/wedding1.jpg" height="441" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moments...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkNOg2Q_CEniRR12qQr4g3JrAdNJEnDqNIu0ncbk6EW5SNnmVB3QLOtfFX93223yomEXLAyiHwkOGLQgIGsknaJWxA5j9LvJa8elTNWvA73bGH2ZKXbQx8MG5T6UU-wSmUGwfIFq_X8a__/s1600/verona.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkNOg2Q_CEniRR12qQr4g3JrAdNJEnDqNIu0ncbk6EW5SNnmVB3QLOtfFX93223yomEXLAyiHwkOGLQgIGsknaJWxA5j9LvJa8elTNWvA73bGH2ZKXbQx8MG5T6UU-wSmUGwfIFq_X8a__/s1600/verona.jpg" height="427" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Verona with us.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
</div>
cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-49744006368117201402014-02-24T23:39:00.001+11:002014-07-12T23:09:03.953+10:00Making of my wedding gown - Part 1I don't have much to show yet, as the gown is still a work in progress. But I would like to share a sneak peak of this huge task.<br />
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First of all, it's not my sole effort. I am lucky enough to have a professional dressmaker neighbour helping me out with the fitting.. So far, the calico fitting is done.<br />
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I will keep the progress updated here. Stay tuned.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigfbyNSijptYEj7SDEWqXwBTlak5eRYVCxFFRsSgokFkVbYEHl8Epssi7Rzp8OcxCmD90LFe1tL8pmtkARhRIrn4GD6y2LrENxTMMW-qPGq4SzCCc4gqAx7Ie0Sn6SmpzlXWX0pi7T3zQC/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigfbyNSijptYEj7SDEWqXwBTlak5eRYVCxFFRsSgokFkVbYEHl8Epssi7Rzp8OcxCmD90LFe1tL8pmtkARhRIrn4GD6y2LrENxTMMW-qPGq4SzCCc4gqAx7Ie0Sn6SmpzlXWX0pi7T3zQC/s1600/back.jpg" height="640" width="476" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">still a little bit more fitting on the back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSsKdOpFr-0ti1g9cObUe78qxFmvyXW7t_p5y5amrVba8EI8uXObRbTJ4MaHWQ3kmSOlLz7dHl57gKrbeDxs53ZmAHEYK_LSw7WxtN1dZZcXEaXdknTpFx7SvcFgkgpln-mlnqxjGEgCQt/s1600/front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSsKdOpFr-0ti1g9cObUe78qxFmvyXW7t_p5y5amrVba8EI8uXObRbTJ4MaHWQ3kmSOlLz7dHl57gKrbeDxs53ZmAHEYK_LSw7WxtN1dZZcXEaXdknTpFx7SvcFgkgpln-mlnqxjGEgCQt/s1600/front.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the belly part looks ok.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZ2csim2_xCn7kqE_jsDRagoAitvetBOxxj4nmZ6vviQTBwmoHwxo3eszzWSeol-1vp9gEbuFeSwr9Ky1N-PUfM4-imO6jr4yd45IPVXTlX7yOCPKJzEcqTr1Nzehx9kwmkPdoh9jTMGX/s1600/fitting4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZ2csim2_xCn7kqE_jsDRagoAitvetBOxxj4nmZ6vviQTBwmoHwxo3eszzWSeol-1vp9gEbuFeSwr9Ky1N-PUfM4-imO6jr4yd45IPVXTlX7yOCPKJzEcqTr1Nzehx9kwmkPdoh9jTMGX/s1600/fitting4.jpg" height="320" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">final fitting done!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rsFxuTMKtHFoepXvHeFzUFZbTbhzNpsW8Lssiwyl_r5zcNth4t8KHkdoyJ5tBpqhJBslmMt3U1Ams8fjrmNKRr4dYHUsTb9nNfpJUDsluTYRKzTJO0oR-708rBhH1_gna6Da_694idtQ/s1600/fitting3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5rsFxuTMKtHFoepXvHeFzUFZbTbhzNpsW8Lssiwyl_r5zcNth4t8KHkdoyJ5tBpqhJBslmMt3U1Ams8fjrmNKRr4dYHUsTb9nNfpJUDsluTYRKzTJO0oR-708rBhH1_gna6Da_694idtQ/s1600/fitting3.jpg" height="640" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lining and interfacing to cut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-46011226987025273412014-01-25T00:38:00.001+11:002015-02-14T00:12:29.513+11:00Welcome the hot days with By Hand London's Georgia Dress I got hooked on By Hand London patterns recently. Here is my first attempt on their <a href="http://shop.byhandlondon.com/product/georgia-dress" target="_blank">Georgia Dress</a>. It's truly a super sexy knockout dress. As of the time I finished the dress, it's the hottest time in Melbourne - above 40 Celsius Degrees for five consecutive days. So the dress exposed the perfect amount of skin to wear during the day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMpnmQYkhSSjVYBKvxAep1geddun6vn-1amkA3kJLZrie1XPTQ68V_M1oiOjnLcIcJOHyFdxy5PhapAZBupgwn_brB2jE1rm1dKMoKzhyfOZaMero2AnfZPbdF3cotKP_oT59PL1Xb1WWh/s1600/front-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMpnmQYkhSSjVYBKvxAep1geddun6vn-1amkA3kJLZrie1XPTQ68V_M1oiOjnLcIcJOHyFdxy5PhapAZBupgwn_brB2jE1rm1dKMoKzhyfOZaMero2AnfZPbdF3cotKP_oT59PL1Xb1WWh/s1600/front-1.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">front view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwi5AjZK_isGM2ztKmEJqBAq6s1IRTV_sINfE7WSgVXQ4uzZt350J-8a59uu8RzyuWoNJWpcQFqgS7KzgECeYBzUz-q5dXa4RLncTpg7XQzPOJwUk7TVw8Z05b0YudYkOeEVsobA7IdPI/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwi5AjZK_isGM2ztKmEJqBAq6s1IRTV_sINfE7WSgVXQ4uzZt350J-8a59uu8RzyuWoNJWpcQFqgS7KzgECeYBzUz-q5dXa4RLncTpg7XQzPOJwUk7TVw8Z05b0YudYkOeEVsobA7IdPI/s1600/back.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZZgwZ4PEkHls1hMW2lqsCGdBhfLD-A_klrZ6qf9radAOj-7jaTSyLXCeDI29KBU3mz0Ys20GAQl1R4XFZf54KluPqxh6mQegA5EIkwKzyKdh9qBqHp7eINw0tBb4c_3RCcYZgwClU7qB/s1600/sideview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZZgwZ4PEkHls1hMW2lqsCGdBhfLD-A_klrZ6qf9radAOj-7jaTSyLXCeDI29KBU3mz0Ys20GAQl1R4XFZf54KluPqxh6mQegA5EIkwKzyKdh9qBqHp7eINw0tBb4c_3RCcYZgwClU7qB/s1600/sideview.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view</td></tr>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Size and the fitting</b><br />
<br />
I was a bit confused about the sizing chart. Based on the measurements and the chart, I cut size 8 above the waist and scaled to size 12 in the skirt. (Yes, all because of my big hips). As I cut the pattern, I sensed the skirt would be very wide so I firstly basted the seams to try on the garment.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5g6LCG2WZRHoa77lwye-M9Vqw2IeVJICjkBsbaY4ndnMQPKhLEHcJ-64cUckbR2fxUR55mXDJv_wVEbStNLolCD-XsyA9Ck5MqHXlWq4y9-8lXVqAxOeAubE0wQ2YjKgDU75frQrG13gB/s1600/first-fitting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5g6LCG2WZRHoa77lwye-M9Vqw2IeVJICjkBsbaY4ndnMQPKhLEHcJ-64cUckbR2fxUR55mXDJv_wVEbStNLolCD-XsyA9Ck5MqHXlWq4y9-8lXVqAxOeAubE0wQ2YjKgDU75frQrG13gB/s1600/first-fitting.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">first fitting</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmst9nzoXkg3CRF8O1KyZXKrJ2MLy-FqkqRNIj0veJ_WmWo9kcCrknjvFK2SUKmGq-UROpl3hsy3gTHVH_LagGuhsPO98buUH0NlBKowLUVc_MeJdt-K7zQf9jBWNXQ9es2qytC0HUvaAM/s1600/second-fitting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmst9nzoXkg3CRF8O1KyZXKrJ2MLy-FqkqRNIj0veJ_WmWo9kcCrknjvFK2SUKmGq-UROpl3hsy3gTHVH_LagGuhsPO98buUH0NlBKowLUVc_MeJdt-K7zQf9jBWNXQ9es2qytC0HUvaAM/s1600/second-fitting.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final fitting - just on side seams</td></tr>
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The skirt panels flare a little as <a href="http://reanalouise.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/the-birthday-georgia-dress.html" target="_blank">reana louisse</a><span style="color: white;"> </span>pointed out.<span style="color: white;"> </span>Plus scaling to size 12, the dress almost looks like an A-line dress! I shouldn't have graded to size 12! But as I had the garment, I pinched the seams to get a close fit. I marked the adjustment, and then unpicked the seams to redo them. I highly recommend using a French Curve Ruler to reflect the changes on the pattern.<br />
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A bit of a pointer on working with the Georgia Dress is to get a good fit. You can either do a full muslin or sew as you try it on. I only did a muslin on the bodice section. The time will be worth while as the dress looks completely different when it fits well.<br />
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Photos below show how much adjustment was needed on the pattern pieces. Even though I cut size 12 below the waist, I found size 8 seems to be more suitable. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7oGpAuaeI0JUmYG8dKQR5Y0bmuQ7jFr_SrNObD5K517l5hZCCw9xWiaGGtHvQX9Fb-TC76o0heKNXBv8JGsfl8Ap_zxnPwm8WukIhC4RiKrcjc0CfkEOuOTMHMWUzb5yKKnh0MD9-5D9p/s1600/layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7oGpAuaeI0JUmYG8dKQR5Y0bmuQ7jFr_SrNObD5K517l5hZCCw9xWiaGGtHvQX9Fb-TC76o0heKNXBv8JGsfl8Ap_zxnPwm8WukIhC4RiKrcjc0CfkEOuOTMHMWUzb5yKKnh0MD9-5D9p/s1600/layout.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of tapering on the skirt</td></tr>
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<b>The fabric</b><br />
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I found this stretch denim from my stash. Check my invoice. I only need 1 metre fabric which costs me only $3. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sk-yQg9qILIuik0S3FwlGRUgOEs8ozSodDAgW3Xox5PAR-dM-tIrkxltYzaXHz-zBYR2mOCV9_9NtaLJN_pn-mwIY3dHEfO8qZtWPdD-yj0iYNqrQdY9e_B2LLKg90WY__E4b85WxJCX/s1600/fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Sk-yQg9qILIuik0S3FwlGRUgOEs8ozSodDAgW3Xox5PAR-dM-tIrkxltYzaXHz-zBYR2mOCV9_9NtaLJN_pn-mwIY3dHEfO8qZtWPdD-yj0iYNqrQdY9e_B2LLKg90WY__E4b85WxJCX/s1600/fabric.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fabric only costs $3!</td></tr>
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I think the dress looks much better if it's close fitted. So I recommend the fabric that has good stretchiness to be comfortable.<br />
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<b>The hem</b><br />
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If you machine stitch the hem, make sure to use narrow zigzag stitch to maintain the stretchiness.<br />
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<b>The straps</b><br />
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I followed the instructions to use a 1 cm seam allowance on the straps, but somehow it turns out to be too narrow. the model photo seems to have a wider straps. I think I should have used 6cm (1/4 inch) seam allowance, and it would have saved me some time trimming the allowance off.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jwbmkxF-ZdecPA2EtyLrevqf5nNdeCSiC-8bxP5A_ijWgvKGWcKFLwUJFTS7R8r2-xZyRL1BotMNVggAQHFLo4brUXSmfRzIbURuAVFPrJWKifQd1hcWGPDxupoMGeCwensRigAjQf1B/s1600/front-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jwbmkxF-ZdecPA2EtyLrevqf5nNdeCSiC-8bxP5A_ijWgvKGWcKFLwUJFTS7R8r2-xZyRL1BotMNVggAQHFLo4brUXSmfRzIbURuAVFPrJWKifQd1hcWGPDxupoMGeCwensRigAjQf1B/s1600/front-2.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Straps are too narrow if using 1cm allowance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It's difficult the turn the strap right side out, especially when it's as narrow as the pattern and the instruction allow it to be. It would be easier to turn if it was wider.<br />
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<b>The zip</b><br />
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I recommend using a lap zip instead of invisible zip because you have to sew a few thick layers at the joint of the bodice and the skirt. It would be not be suitable for invisible zip.<br />
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I put together a few photos on how to sew a lap zip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbgfQ7NrteDWXc4HR0DcsOpSZHYqg8zzbuhvzcRcs8O5KxIgt0M7lFOmW9Jg4zcXIVkRY_UZ_RpQzMYV2vZN5M-gljzVK2ydeMDe9wKk_tl7m0ljnW98XKwKglQg3HVCsTjGVUxb3Hpo-C/s1600/zips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbgfQ7NrteDWXc4HR0DcsOpSZHYqg8zzbuhvzcRcs8O5KxIgt0M7lFOmW9Jg4zcXIVkRY_UZ_RpQzMYV2vZN5M-gljzVK2ydeMDe9wKk_tl7m0ljnW98XKwKglQg3HVCsTjGVUxb3Hpo-C/s1600/zips.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>What's next</b><br />
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I am making a shirt dress at the moment. Hopefully I can finish it this weekend. Thanks for reading.cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4330523813842265746.post-36046544045118909882014-01-12T16:18:00.000+11:002014-01-12T16:32:42.094+11:00Alma Top v1.0I fell in love with Sewaholic Patterns after my first <a href="http://cozycotton.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/my-black-cambie-dress.html" target="_blank"><b>Black Cambie Dress.</b></a> This<b> <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/alma-blouse/" target="_blank">Sewaholic Alma Top</a></b> is much easier than I expected. I read rave reviews on this pattern. I am a big fan of the Peter Pan collar, and I do need some tops/blouses to "brighten up" my wardrobe. So here it is:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOhb_4_7HOD91z-7iJ8INALcUNAFT8LsTONwKkM17dbiVv6RemIMoNC7FrOH5lTA-PyMWkYdAf55RC66k7GCNMNNfkToKvtA4IV3X39wFyeAAv4LoKZhvTW_22AlSUkhtnOUQ9mTRvVeZR/s1600/front-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOhb_4_7HOD91z-7iJ8INALcUNAFT8LsTONwKkM17dbiVv6RemIMoNC7FrOH5lTA-PyMWkYdAf55RC66k7GCNMNNfkToKvtA4IV3X39wFyeAAv4LoKZhvTW_22AlSUkhtnOUQ9mTRvVeZR/s1600/front-2.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">great top to go with shorts</td></tr>
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<b>The sizing and fitting</b><br />
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You don't have to fiddle with the fitting. It's a semi-fitted top. Allow some ease. Use the bust measure to determine the size to cut because you want the armholes and sleeves to fit well. </div>
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I think I should have shortened the sleeves by around 1 cm after I finished the garment. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoikLiWho34RwZzjx5VM9heGnVXeBySXWYtaEcqCo-5JT4RU8ZcANbI-h8ZnAbnJNh5KJhnanj8vlxZI0dQm580cIm-Qdn-CrBhd_0AYfQQIJXaHqw3-E1gikMqK39VTdS22vI9FTBlU7/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoikLiWho34RwZzjx5VM9heGnVXeBySXWYtaEcqCo-5JT4RU8ZcANbI-h8ZnAbnJNh5KJhnanj8vlxZI0dQm580cIm-Qdn-CrBhd_0AYfQQIJXaHqw3-E1gikMqK39VTdS22vI9FTBlU7/s1600/back.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i think the sleeves are a little bit too long</td></tr>
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<div>
<b>The fabric</b></div>
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The fabric is the pretty printed cotton poplin from Spotlight. The print turns out to be much better than when it's on the bolt. I only used 1 meter of fabric (120cm width), and 35 cm solid colour poplin for the collar. It cost me around $10. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtP_CFFd99EFta15kcSMXjM-FqoazKqhgW8hjLoBVTfiBxjZebG54rQ6B4D0ye-zTuT2g6cWQ4BExEyBzdMaTIeXgwyEDx5QKTiDJXtkK4f7o1tdIphXOPv2MQg3HXlDWF66Yl79sAUTf/s1600/full-top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtP_CFFd99EFta15kcSMXjM-FqoazKqhgW8hjLoBVTfiBxjZebG54rQ6B4D0ye-zTuT2g6cWQ4BExEyBzdMaTIeXgwyEDx5QKTiDJXtkK4f7o1tdIphXOPv2MQg3HXlDWF66Yl79sAUTf/s1600/full-top.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cute, pretty print on the fabric from Spotlight</td></tr>
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<b>The zip</b></div>
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The only challenging step (compared to the rest of the construction) is installing the invisible zip on the side seam. Follow the instructions and you will be pretty safe. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7vmAv-swcQptNdMvon2g3rnNZXJFocf-prMgRChuH7jA6q1I7fuwkFdC4YEGzWNyKbYS6qLWB7lfjOIVAyjtS3Fx9uXOSRYxwRhxp3eObZgorrijzzgjT-uWEJBZjOBg4N1C7YS3UkHeg/s1600/zip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7vmAv-swcQptNdMvon2g3rnNZXJFocf-prMgRChuH7jA6q1I7fuwkFdC4YEGzWNyKbYS6qLWB7lfjOIVAyjtS3Fx9uXOSRYxwRhxp3eObZgorrijzzgjT-uWEJBZjOBg4N1C7YS3UkHeg/s1600/zip.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">zip on the side seam</td></tr>
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<b>The hem</b></div>
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I decided to make good use of my Bernina Narrow Hem Foot #64. The narrow hem is great on light weight fabric and for tops or blouses. As it uses less seam allowance, I shortened the pattern by 1 cm.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIpxROTquiwN87c6eTKhOc6rQ6_CWDdKdhy9tk73PYvnxDBYm3UHBenQHPmOgQgHEH6dPbuntlA5kwhSiz2DX0gD3qpnh4reyKh_loeClI7C60WoWmxrOMC_fx2VU1vcrjmy4CIQ4JYVnU/s1600/bernina-foot-%252364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIpxROTquiwN87c6eTKhOc6rQ6_CWDdKdhy9tk73PYvnxDBYm3UHBenQHPmOgQgHEH6dPbuntlA5kwhSiz2DX0gD3qpnh4reyKh_loeClI7C60WoWmxrOMC_fx2VU1vcrjmy4CIQ4JYVnU/s1600/bernina-foot-%252364.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks to Bernina foot #64</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1mCvWjk4r-Bf8wZqTDQCKb3CXIFPbTx15dXj9N42dOYHVNOAeoW_4Bb3W8PxzEGTx8JxumVXNpT-ksP6Psg6Qya7da5Kz9eH5BSCT58B5nrqUXtEcodBiPSsTMftpthyphenhyphenFDPrFFndrste/s1600/hem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1mCvWjk4r-Bf8wZqTDQCKb3CXIFPbTx15dXj9N42dOYHVNOAeoW_4Bb3W8PxzEGTx8JxumVXNpT-ksP6Psg6Qya7da5Kz9eH5BSCT58B5nrqUXtEcodBiPSsTMftpthyphenhyphenFDPrFFndrste/s1600/hem.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narrow hem is great for light weight fabric</td></tr>
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<b>What's Next</b></div>
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I just finished By Hand London's Georgia Dress. Hope the review will be up next week. Thanks for reading. Feel free to comment below. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5x5zDtIkAXy28Zjmt2je-OXkj0MT6DvDLRNw1gG9anoC2zCC2RdmA_eybCcUlnmSV_wOt_KFpQYFP1FmjSfOTbCL_R655tEfjnQoM1hGb977CmnliX4q1vMeZeAW5gupxxZSpsD6Cr3tv/s1600/what%2527s-next---georgia-dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5x5zDtIkAXy28Zjmt2je-OXkj0MT6DvDLRNw1gG9anoC2zCC2RdmA_eybCcUlnmSV_wOt_KFpQYFP1FmjSfOTbCL_R655tEfjnQoM1hGb977CmnliX4q1vMeZeAW5gupxxZSpsD6Cr3tv/s1600/what%2527s-next---georgia-dress.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">what's next...</td></tr>
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cozy cottonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10575160997141915269noreply@blogger.com0