I opted to do a simple project this time. I went with Simplicity 1651. It has two bodice designs and two skirt design. I chose the sweetheart neckline and strap back for the bodice and the half circle skirt. There is no lining but only neckline facing and bias binding on the armscyes. Sounds easy, huh?! It didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped mainly because I had some minor issues on the fitting and the bust darts.
Fitting
The bust darts turned out to be way too high, almost sitting on my upper bust. It really damaged the shape of the dress! It may be partly because I cut size 8 at the shoulders, 10 at the bust and 12 at the waist so the shoulder seam pulls the dress up. I think the bust darts should be moved down by at least 1 inch.
The bust darts turned out to be way too high, almost sitting on my upper bust. It really damaged the shape of the dress! It may be partly because I cut size 8 at the shoulders, 10 at the bust and 12 at the waist so the shoulder seam pulls the dress up. I think the bust darts should be moved down by at least 1 inch.
As I cut a much smaller size at the shoulders, the armholes are also too small. I think I should cut size 10 and do a SBA next time.
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| Bust darts are too high |
The fabric is cotton lawn with print. When I first bought it, it felt smooth and looked very good on the bolt. But after a pre-shrink, it feels stiffer and the colour looks dull. Well what can I say? I only paid $4 per meter. I guess I got what I paid for.
I think I should use Sateen next time, something that is heavier in weight.
Construction
The construction is not hard. The only problem I had is when attaching the back bands, I found the bands did not lie flat after I matched the notches. As shown on the photo below, the upper edge of the band has more tension than the lower edge. I had to unpick the seam and lay the bodice on my dummy to fit the band.
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| Gap under the straps |
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| Pin the strap on the dummy to ensure they are flat |
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| Adjustment on the stitch line of the straps |
Another little challenge is the construction of the v-point at the back. One of the first dresses I made when I first started sewing is Butterick 5603. Back then I was confused when constructing a similar v-shaped back bodice, but his time I did better. I took some photos on how to clip the seam allowance at the v-point so they can be pressed flat.
The pattern calls for an invisible zip at the side seam under the armhole. It's a bit fiddly when sewing the bias binding over the top of the zip at the bottom of the armhole. I believe I still need to improve this useful technique.
Material list:
Cotton poly blend lawn 140cm wide: 1.50m x $4 = $6
18" invisible zip
Conclusion... and what's next...
I am really not a big fan of the side seam zip. It irritates me and scratches my skin. Well it's also because I cut the shoulder seam too small. If I have the patience to make this pattern again, there are lots of areas to improve. I would like to try the twisted bodice next time too.
This is the first time I made a half circle skirt. I am not sure whether I like it or not. I think I have enough flare skirts in my wardrobe now. Now the exciting news is that I just started making shirts, and am currently working on Sewaholic's Granville Shirt. I hope I have the review up very soon.
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