Saturday, 4 October 2014

Burda #122 09/14 Godet dress with cap sleeves

I hadn't sewn a BurdaStyle pattern for a while. Although the photos on magazine have always appealed to me, I am often discouraged from starting a new project, due to all the hassles like tracing patterns from the eye-confusing pattern sheet and the unclear instructions. It's not that easy to sew compared to other commercial patterns.
On this occasion however, I couldn't resist this unusual Godet Dress. It has multiple curved seams from the shoulder all over the bust towards the centre. The ripple-like seams tailor the upper body accurately and the skirt lightly flares from the waist, with a single godet inserted in the lower front that drapes evenly.




Sizing and fabric
I was further inspired by the member project on BurdaStyle. Liliv1 had problem with the sizing, so I paid extra attention with the fitting. I bought some dark brown flannel, at least that's what I thought (no label was on the bolt). However, as I sewed up the pieces, I found the fabric was not right, it's actually poly fleece and it also made me skin itchy when I put it on. I thought "OK, it can serve as a testing muslin".

I cut size 36 and graded to 38 from the waist. I found the bodice is a little bit tight, but the skirt around the lower abdomen was a bit loose. It required minimal adjustment thanks to my pre-cutting measurement on the pattern pieces.

I found some lightweight wool flannel in my stash. I worried it may be too light and soft, so I used a crispier lining fabric. I also shortened the back skirt by a couple of centimetres.

Construction tips and pointers
There is lots of curved stitching in this dress. Luckily I have gone through curves in my last Scalloped Dress so this dress was nothing to me. The BurdaStyle patterns often do not have notches. I matched a lot of notches on the curved lines of the pattern myself in order to get neat and smooth curved seams. My effort paid off! The seams are accurate and symmetrical on both sides and it looks fabulous.
Adding lots of notches

I topstitched those curved seams using a double needle with matching threads.

Lots of curved stitching again... I used lots of pins.


Overall, this is a unique design that stands out from the rest of the Burda patterns and it is very flattering to my body shape. You can also be creative with the curved seams with different decorative stitches, threads and colours. I will definitely make it again.

Material list
Wool flannel 150cm wide: 1.40m x $10 = $15
Poly lining 122cm wide: 1.00m x $2 = $2
Invisible zip 22 inch

Misc
Spring/Summer is here in Melbourne. I caught up with my friend on a lovely Saturday Morning and enjoyed the yummy Ramen and free entertainment in the city.





I am a big fan of Yorkshire Tea

19 comments:

  1. Beautiful! All your patience and curved stitching practice paid-off - it's immaculate! Great style and very flattering on you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Carrie. The wool is very easy to work with, so the pressing is pretty easy on this project.

      Delete
  2. spectacular dress! dunno why i still havent sewed it up :) bought the fabric the moment pattern was out, but i am still to squeeze it into my schedule.. your dress might be that push in the right direction that i needed, so thank you for the inspiration

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Mokosha! Love the dresses you make. I would love to see your version soon!?

      Delete
  3. Fantastic dress! You did a beautiful job with the curves and the topstitching!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Saw ;your review at PR. This is a great fitting dress. You did an excellent job and your blog post is most helpful. I may have to give this a try.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Linda. I highly recommend this pattern. It's quite easy to sew.

      Delete
  5. This was my favourite pattern from that Burda issue and you have made a beautiful version. Great blog too, you have a new follower!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Aww Megan that's so sweet! Thank you.

      Delete
  6. Wow colour,shape all looking amazing on you ! Im going to make one soon !

    ReplyDelete
  7. Great job, and congratulations on your second place in the PR competition!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you. I was thrilled learning the news. Yay!

      Delete
  8. Congratulations on your PR contect success! Beautiful dress, this is a very well deserved win.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I absolutely adore this dress on you! You did an awesome job in creating it! I just went over to the BurdaSstyle website, purchased and downloaded this pattern! I can't wait to make it and thank you so much for the great review! You should definitely make it again! BTW...I love all the great photos of you and your family, looks like a lot of fun was had by all!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Aww Myra You are so sweet! :) Hope you have fun with this pattern and looking forward to seeing your version. Love your blog too. You make so many knits garment and I just start sewing knits. I will learn more from your blog.

      Delete
  10. Celeste, Congratulations on your win, you must be elated. Also I really like your black and white dress which also fits you perfectly. Good work again. Are you starting a new outfit for the new year?

    ReplyDelete

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...