Monday, 20 October 2014

Vogue 8944: Colour Block Dress

I almost overlooked this simple yet stylish Vogue pattern if not for fact that Spotlight kept discounting patterns. 

The fabric I used is double Ponte knits. It’s my first time sewing this fabric. It’s easy to cut, comfortable to wear, although it’s a bit too thick or bulky at the seams. I used three warm colour combination – grey, yellow and lilac.

The fitting was not easy. I almost lose my patience and wanted to abandon the project. Based on the model photo, the bodice looks fitted. But the pattern is actually very loose fitted. I had problem with the back bodice – it’s way too wide even I cut a record small size of size 6! I still need to trim away 1 cm width at the centre back.
Armhole without adjustment

 As SunnyGal Studio pointed out, the armhole needs reshaped. I have the final pattern pieces here so you can see my adjustment. I also shorten the yoke by ¼ inch, accordingly same to the back bodice.

During the construction, I combined the two front bodice pieces into one piece with darts. This way, I can save some fabric, extra cutting and stitching.

I also remove the zip because it’s knit and I can just slip through. 

Material list:
Grey Ponte (147cm wide): 0.5m x $11 = $5.5
Yellow Ponte: 0.3m x $11 = $3.3
Lilac Ponte: 0.7m x $11 = $7.7
Tricot for lining: 0.5 m

Overall, I am happy with the pattern. The Once you get your right fitting, you can turn this pattern into distinct dress by choosing different colour combinations and materials.

What’s next?
I just bought the By Hand London Elisalex Dress Pattern. Very excited. Start working on it now. 

Saturday, 4 October 2014

Burda #122 09/14 Godet dress with cap sleeves

I hadn't sewn a BurdaStyle pattern for a while. Although the photos on magazine have always appealed to me, I am often discouraged from starting a new project, due to all the hassles like tracing patterns from the eye-confusing pattern sheet and the unclear instructions. It's not that easy to sew compared to other commercial patterns.
On this occasion however, I couldn't resist this unusual Godet Dress. It has multiple curved seams from the shoulder all over the bust towards the centre. The ripple-like seams tailor the upper body accurately and the skirt lightly flares from the waist, with a single godet inserted in the lower front that drapes evenly.

Sizing and fabric
I was further inspired by the member project on BurdaStyle. Liliv1 had problem with the sizing, so I paid extra attention with the fitting. I bought some dark brown flannel, at least that's what I thought (no label was on the bolt). However, as I sewed up the pieces, I found the fabric was not right, it's actually poly fleece and it also made me skin itchy when I put it on. I thought "OK, it can serve as a testing muslin".

I cut size 36 and graded to 38 from the waist. I found the bodice is a little bit tight, but the skirt around the lower abdomen was a bit loose. It required minimal adjustment thanks to my pre-cutting measurement on the pattern pieces.

I found some lightweight wool flannel in my stash. I worried it may be too light and soft, so I used a crispier lining fabric. I also shortened the back skirt by a couple of centimetres.

Construction tips and pointers
There is lots of curved stitching in this dress. Luckily I have gone through curves in my last Scalloped Dress so this dress was nothing to me. The BurdaStyle patterns often do not have notches. I matched a lot of notches on the curved lines of the pattern myself in order to get neat and smooth curved seams. My effort paid off! The seams are accurate and symmetrical on both sides and it looks fabulous.
Adding lots of notches

I topstitched those curved seams using a double needle with matching threads.

Lots of curved stitching again... I used lots of pins.

Overall, this is a unique design that stands out from the rest of the Burda patterns and it is very flattering to my body shape. You can also be creative with the curved seams with different decorative stitches, threads and colours. I will definitely make it again.

Material list
Wool flannel 150cm wide: 1.40m x $10 = $15
Poly lining 122cm wide: 1.00m x $2 = $2
Invisible zip 22 inch

Spring/Summer is here in Melbourne. I caught up with my friend on a lovely Saturday Morning and enjoyed the yummy Ramen and free entertainment in the city.

I am a big fan of Yorkshire Tea

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